Johnson outboard motor mounts

Johnson outboard motor mounts DEFAULT

1979 Johnson 35 Upper Motor Mount

Those motor mounts, along with the port and SB side mounts, are basically molded rubber with a square metal base and stud that the bolts tie into. They shrink, dry out, and break/split all the time. It’s like your windshield wipers, the rubber vulcanizes and they they’re done. I’m more impressed that they last for decades in some cases. I wish my windshield wipers lasted more than 6 months. And the price to buy new ones is absolutely ridiculous.

To get at all three you have to take the swivel bracket off. It’s a relatively simple disassembly.

There are 4 screws at the bottom, two in the front, two on the port side. Hopefully the two port side screws aren’t stuck from salt water. They stick a lot up here in the northeast. You’ll need a long reach socket to remove them. There are two bolts, one on each side of the motor that you can wrench off. Don’t be surprised if the studs don’t twist off or break during removal. The last one is the front/bow side nut which you should be able to access via a ratchet and two extensions (or a long).

Once all are removed, you’ll have to use force to yank the thing off because they are wedged into the 3 studs (near the top of the motor). If it falls off, then you’ll know pretty quick which ones are no good.

If you have broken ones, go find a junk motor from 1957-2006 (18, 20, 25, 28, 30, 35hp of any of these years utilize the same ones), the motor mounts are all the same. Don’t pay more than $25 for a junker, and cannibalize the ones you need!

The front motor mount seems to change the most depending on age, weather exposure, etc. That one will literally shrink down by 25%, then it separates, or the bolts break, or whatever, but when you try to reinstall things or tighten down that nut,it will just split in half or break if it is already on it’s way out.

A shaky motor may not seem very evident until you pull that steering bracket off. But is sure makes a big difference in vibrations of course!

Sours: https://aomci.org/forums/topic/1979-johnson-35-upper-motor-mount/

309324 Rubber Motor Mounts Johnson Evinrude Outboard

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309324 Rubber Motor Mounts Johnson Evinrude Outboard

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Building the Modern Family

Western Fertility Institute firmly believes that any person who wishes to have a family has the right to pursue their dreams of becoming a family, regardless of marital status or sexual orientation. We offer the opportunity to choose from various family building options in a continuously attentive and welcoming environment. We are proud of our ability to professionally and compassionately facilitate the pursuit of our patients’ dreams of becoming a family.

Sours: http://www.westernfertility.com/Evinrude-Outboard-Rubber/Auto-Parts-&-Accessories-ixoby-119629.shtml
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0388234 0436470 Evinrude Johnson Outboard Upper Engine Mount to Steering Arm

SoldSee similar items$38.99Buy It Now, Click to see shipping cost, 30-Day Returns, eBay Money Back Guarantee

Seller:outboardheaven✉️(21,475)99.3%, Location:Suamico, Wisconsin, Ships to: US, Item:4027307722060388234 0436470 Evinrude Johnson Outboard Upper Engine Mount to Steering Arm. 0388234 0436470 Evinrude Johnson Outboard Upper Engine Mount to Steering Arm SKU: GB594215855 Brand: OMC Condition: Used Notes: Freshwater Part, No Corrosion Year: 1976-2005 MPN: 388234 warehouse: T76E Horse Power: 40, 45, 50, 55, 60 Casting Number: 315488 Related Part Numbers: 388234, 0436470, 436470 This sale is for one used upper engine mount for Evinrude and Johnson two cylinder outboard motors. The OMC/BRP part numbers are 0436470 and 0388234.The casting number may be 315488. This upper rubber mount fits many Johnson and Evinrude outboards 2 cylinder 45, 48, 50, 55, 60 Hp from 1976-2005.If you are unsure whether this Rubber Mount fits your model, please contact us with the year, Hp and model number and we can help determine if it is right for your needs. Thanks for looking!!! Green Bay Prop offers many used Evinrude and Johnson 2 cylinder outboard parts! Our used freshwater Evinrude outboard parts are in great condition and cheaper than buying new! Check out our selection of 50, 60 and 70 Hp Evinrude Johnson outboard parts. We have the most used Stern Drive Used Outboard parts in Wisconsin! T76E ChristineCondition:Used, Condition:Freshwater Part, No Corrosion, Return shipping will be paid by:Buyer, Returns Accepted:Returns Accepted, Item must be returned within:30 Days, Refund will be given as:Money Back, Brand:OMC, MPN:388234, Manufacturer Part Number:436470, 388234, Year:1976-2005

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1992 Johnson 25 hp replace motor mounts and broken bolt extraction.

RUBBER MOUNT, Lower, Hi-Performance.0434632

RUBBER MOUNT, Lower, Hi-Performance.-0434632
Evinrude & Johnson, OMChttps://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/1305.cfm
https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/1305.cfm
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  • Guaranteed fitment for 26 different models
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Product Fitment Grid

This guide is to be used as a reference only. You must verify fitment using your model or serial number.

BRANDMODEL1981198219831984198519861987198819891990
Evinrude Outboards120----xxxxxx
Evinrude Outboards125--------xx
Evinrude Outboards140----xxxxxx
Evinrude Outboards150xxxxxxxxxx
Evinrude Outboards155-------xxx
Evinrude Outboards175xxx-xxxxxx
Evinrude Outboards185---xx---xx
Evinrude Outboards200xxx--xx-xx
Evinrude Outboards225-----xx-xx
Evinrude Outboards235xxxxx-----
Johnson Outboards120----xxxxxx
Johnson Outboards125--------xx
Johnson Outboards140----xxxxxx
Johnson Outboards150xxxxxxxxxx
Johnson Outboards155-------xxx
Johnson Outboards175xxx-xxxxxx
Johnson Outboards185---xx---xx
Johnson Outboards200xxx--xx-xx
Johnson Outboards225-----xx-xx
Johnson Outboards235xxxxx-----
OMC Sea Drive1.6 - Mechanical------x---
OMC Sea Drive1.6L--xx------
OMC Sea Drive1.6L - Hydraulic-----x----
OMC Sea Drive1.6L - Hydraulic - XL----x-----
OMC Sea Drive1.6L - Mechanical-----x-xxx
OMC Sea Drive1.6L - Mechanical - XL----x-----

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  1. 08-26-2002, 10:26 PM#1
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    OMC Solid Motor Mounts


  2. 08-27-2002, 02:10 AM#2
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    Here are some I found.
    http://www.land-and-sea.com/marine/m...tor_mounts.htm

    What are the negative affects of Solid motor mounts, if any? Land and Sea says they recomend them to anyone w/ a boat that does 60+. How big a difference do they make?

  3. 08-27-2002, 04:34 AM#3
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    I'm surprised Rick hadn't already jumper in hear and said he could get them for you.

    I got mine from [email protected]

    On my 89 GT200 I only installed a solid top mount. The two bottom mounts were hard as a rock, the top would shake all over the place. Since I already had the power head off, I figured I would go ahead and put a solid top mount in and then if needed, install the two bottoms. So far I haven't seen where solid bottoms have been need on mine.

    On most motors, once you get above 60 mph they are must. You can't control the chine walk without them. It's about like trying to drive one single cable steering.
    Keith Jones


  4. Bob's

    If I remember correctly, Bob's mounts are about half as much as L&S. I do not know if Rickracer sells them, but I am sure he will jump in any second now. Otherwise, you can always get them from that friendly lady at Bob's.

  5. 08-27-2002, 10:28 AM#5
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    Ben

    the problem that you have with the top only motor mount is that the bottoms are fasted to a spline on the bottom of the tiller. and as the motor moves it will wear those splines. the splines on the shaft are not a big worry but the splines on the part that the mounts bolt to is aluminum and wears very quickly. You will notice slop soon. It used to get me when John Tiger used to tell guy's to just install the bottom mounts because they steer the boat. I thought good thing Larry flint has alot of money cause if he kept giving out that bad advise and some one gets killed he is going to have to give some of it away.

  6. 08-27-2002, 11:31 AM#6
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    Hi Jesse, The ones I have on my 225 Evenrude are from Land & Sea. I replaced both upper and lower. It helped take all of the shake out of the motor

  7. 08-27-2002, 12:58 PM#7
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  8. 08-27-2002, 02:38 PM#8
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    i got mine

    from rick and he said they only make lower mounts for them.
    the lowers are from land and sea, they work great! the upper i drove a couple of pins through but they loostened up and ill have to machine up a couple of custom unit this winter.

    thumper runs rubber mounts in his stream and they are SLOPPY but he does just fine ruining his kidneys in 2 footers! then you should see the way he runs his boat! ask him.

    the solids made a handling difference in mine that i could feel. i would say do it.

    Rick.........................Hello...............anyone there? he must be sleeping.


    Crew chief 2004 CHAMP ROOKIE OF THE YEAR!!!

  9. 08-27-2002, 02:57 PM#9
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    I was busy out in the shop......

    I can do the lowers but not the uppers. I might just have to see if I can get some made, if there's a big enough market.
    Rickracer

    Sunshine Syndicate Member

    There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."


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  10. 08-27-2002, 03:05 PM#10
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    Count me as looking to, Rick.Racer posted on the adjusting carbs thread that there were some good factory upper mounts available, I think he said they were on the xp/gt's some years.
    CHARGER19



    If you're cheap...you got the wrong hobby!

  11. 08-27-2002, 05:24 PM#11
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    Thumbs up

    I need some uppers made Rick!

  12. Thumbs up DONE!

    My buddy the wizard that cut down my mid, shaft, heads, jets etc has a program in his CNC to make a set very, very close to what the L/S's are.
    Don't know price yet but very close to that of the L/S's.
    He can do uppers and lowers.
    SpeedRacer tried going through L/S right before the Rumble and they told him he was S.O.L.
    Any of you guys that want them or are interested, let me know and I will get you guys price and delivery.
    e-me
    Gary
    P.S. This is the same buddy that cast a 2 blade stainless wheel and magnesium (sp?) hardware for me when we were both in High School and racing kneel down stuff. (was at Rumble 1 & 2)
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


    I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.


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  13. 08-27-2002, 08:38 PM#13
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    Greg?? Bottom Mounts

    Greg,

    I'm not sure what spline you're refering to. Is this something with the motor mount itself, or is this the pivot that fastens the midsection to the transome mounting bracket? We are talking an 89 Johnson GT200, I hope. I haven't had my bottoms out, tried but they were so hard they didn't want to come without some major effort. I couldn't even make the rubber wiggle. That's why I left them and decided to start by just replacing the top with a solid. My bottoms are just big blocks of very hard rubber pressed into the midsection with a couple of bolt holes in the front to bolt the transom mount up to it, and a cover over them to keep them to keep them in place (like they realy need it).

    If there is something I'm running a risk of screwing up, those solid bottoms are not that expensive. If I can just get those factory ones out.

    Keith
    Keith Jones


  14. 08-27-2002, 09:16 PM#14
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    Thumbs up

    Yes yes
    Gary I am in for a set... at least!
    RUMBLE3 hehehe
    Chris
    Last edited by Laker; 08-27-2002 at 09:19 PM.

  15. 08-27-2002, 09:26 PM#15
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    I think the above post was sort of confusing the tiller shaft splines tend to get pounded out if you run lowers only. Running the upper by itself will not cause excess spline wear. I am not excited about solid mounts on any lakeboat run a new set of stl or sl mounts and add a L&S posi-steer plate or equivalent. The plate limits deflection in the mounts on the steering axis but doesn't unnecessarily stiffen the mountings in any other direction.

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Frank Mole Transport
Sours: https://www.screamandfly.com/
1992 Johnson 25 hp replace motor mounts and broken bolt extraction.

9.5 Johnson front motor mount replace??

O.k...heres the follow up:)It is absolutely possible to replace the front motor mount on these little engines without splitting the cases.
It takes a lot of patience and a little telescoping magnet, but i did it in around 2 hours ( with beer and cursing breaks..lol)
Remove the 2 bolts on the front outside of the case...tiller side.
Remove flywheel and throttle linkage.
Push engine back and wedge a piece of wood or whatever is handy between the engine and case ( i wedged it at the rope starter gear mount for max clearance and accessibility to motor mount)
Remove 2 bolts holding mount to engine (i could only fit a wrench in there...this is also where your telescoping magnet will come in handy for dropped bolts)
Motor mount can now be wedged out and turfed..lol
Install in reverse order....but....this again is where you need the magnet....the 1 lower carb side bolt will have to be inserted into the mount before its placed into the install position. I used the magnet to hold the bolt and then a screwdriver to wedge/hold it in place. Once its wedged you can use the wrench to start threading the bolt in....
I dropped the bolt in the case approx 6 times before i figured out which combination of magnet/screwdriver and wrench would work..lol
After that bolt the rest are easy...install the other bolt to the engine, take out your wood wedge, install 2 bolts from mount to case, re-install linkage and flywheel and your good to go!
Cheers all, and thanks for all the great info on here:very_drunk:

 

Sours: https://forums.iboats.com/threads/9-5-johnson-front-motor-mount-replace.670176/

Now discussing:

special offer 1975 Johnson 25hp Outboard 25EL75B motor mounts take up to 70% off

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in a more detailed blog post, twitter shared that it hoped fleets would make people more comfortable posting onto twitter. as fleets disappear, some of the fleet creation features, like gifs and stickers, will be implemented into the standard tweets composer.

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Sours: https://www.eyeboston.com/admin.php?indoors45/afba755762.htm


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