944 ls swap guide

944 ls swap guide DEFAULT

LS ENGINE CONVERSION INSTALLATION KITS

 for Porsche 944 and 951 Conversions

(Prices are subject to change, Please read our Store Policy)

These kits are designed to get the LS engine into your 944. There are still other parts required for the conversion. Not sure what parts you need, give us call and lets talk about your project.

Check out a partial list of parts at the bottom on the page.

LS ENGINE CONVERSION  

DELUXE INSTALLATION KIT

This is the deluxe LS conversion kit.

It features:

  • New C5 1 Piece Corvette bell housing, modified with 1/4 spacer and long dowel pins
  • C5 1 Piece Bell housing Adapter, with new bolts for installation,
  • LS pilot bearing adapter with a new sealed bearing,
  • LS conversion oil pan, custom fabricated with pick up tube
  • Billet On-Pan oil filter block and cross over plate,
  • LS conversion motor mount uprights,
  • 11" Clutch Kit (Disc, Pressure Plate, Flywheel and Bolts
  • Throw out slave bearing with stainless steel hose and fittings for Porsche master cylinder, and 24" Remote Bleeder,
  • 36" Stainless steel throttle cable,
  • Two heater hoses (one 5/8" and one 3/4") , 
  • Conversion Tubular exhaust manifolds
Basic Kit for Street
Deluxe Kit for Street

$3,519.88

Shipping $169.99

Check out some of our other parts:

Call or email for latest price list and orders.

  • Brakes - Complete Hydro-Boost brake kit. Every fitting, hoses, Modification and assembly required
  • Fuel Line Kit - Everything needed to modify and install your fuel custom lines. 
  • TurnOne Power Steering pump.
  • Radiators - Stock Turbo and Custom Dual Pass - Come with hose kits and installation parts where needed.
  • Wiring Harnesses - Specific harnesses for your engine selection and configuration.
  • 7/8 Clutch master for larger pressure plates. Fits stock location. 
  • ​A/C kit - Compressor, Brackets, Belt, Dryer and New Condenser that fits stock location.
  • Gauge Panels - 1,2,3 hole panels for console installation
  • LS to 944 Water Temp Sensor
Sours: http://www.texasperformanceconcepts.com/LS1-Basic-Installation-Kit.html

NOTE: The SBC and LT conversion kits have been discontinued in favor of the LS series kits. Some support parts are still available so please inquire. For 924 owners (excluding '87-'88 924S) looking to do a conversion, we do not have a conversion kit, nor do we recommend converting the 924 platform.)

944 Basic Conversion Kit

Part

Qty

Retail

C5 1 Piece modified bellhousing, new long dowel pins, and � bellhousing spacer

1

 

Adapter Plate pre-assembled with hydraulic throw out bearing, custom hydraulic line and fittings, and hardware

2

 

Organic Clutch Disc with Porsche center spline

1

 

Motor Mount kit complete with engine mount uprights, block plates, rubber isolators, and hardware

1

 

Custom road-race oil pan with windage tray and spring loaded trap doors, oil pump pick up tube and hardware

1

 

Remote Oil Filter Mount and hardware

1

 

Front cross member and sway bar drop kit with hardware

1

 

Pilot bearing and pilot bearing bushing

1

 

Brake Master Cylinder Mount and Pushrod with hardware

1

 

Custom Ignition Coil Mount Bracket with hardware

1

 

Custom extended SS clutch line with bleeder valve for remote bleeding

1

 

 

Total

$2,395.00

$1,195RENEGADE 944 TO LS Series COMPLETE COOLING SYSTEM: Including high efficiency custom radiator, HP puller fan and mounts, thermostatic control switch, 30 amp relay, and pre-wired harness, assembled and ready for installation in the stock 944 radiator location. $849CUSTOM BUILT LS STEEL SHORTY HIGH FLOW HEADERS: With 1¾-inch primaries and 3-inch collectors.$2495CUSTOM BUILT LS STAINLESS STEEL LONG TUBE HEADERS: 1⅞" primaries for a perfect fit long tube header in a Porsche 944/951/968. They are 304 stainless with a thick head flange and 3-inch collectors ( pictures )$200CERAMIC COATING FOR SHORTY HEADERS: High temperature black ceramic coating.( pictures )$340CERAMIC COATING FOR LONG TUBE HEADERS: High temperature black ceramic coating. ( pictures )$245CUSTOM REMOTE FILTER OIL LINES: One pair with all needed fittings.$30COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT: To work with your stock factory gauge and install in your LS V8.$70OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT: To work with your stock factory gauge and install in your LS V8.$30CUSTOM OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT ADAPTER$330KEVLAR HIGH PERFORMANCE CLUTCH DISC UPGRADE: $200 added to upgrade stock disc included with basic conversion kit. This disc is to be paired with our Stage 2 Yellow Pressure Plate for increased clamp load and increased ft lbs of torque capacity (650 ft lbs) $145LS FLYWHEEL$300HIGH PERFORMANCE STAGE-TWO YELLOW PRESSURE PLATE$335SPEC STEEL FLYWHEEL ( picture )$425SPEC ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL ( picture )$379SPEC STAGE 1 CLUTCH DISC & PRESSURE PLATE ( picture ) *Features an integrally molded carbon-based, high performance organic lining that offers smooth engagement and excellent life. This lining has an integrally molded steel backing for strength under high clamp loads and temperatures. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. best for street and limited track/off-road usage. (599 ft lbs torque capacity) $519SPEC STAGE 2 CLUTCH DISC & PRESSURE PLATE ( picture ) *Features pure segmented or full faced kevlar disc with steel backing. This lining features excellent drivability like the stage 1, but offers slightly longer life and higher torque capacity. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Best for street, drag, pulling and autocross. (690 ft lbs torque capacity) $529SPEC STAGE 2+ CLUTCH DISC & PRESSURE PLATE ( picture ) *Features a multi-friction disc in a full faced configuration with carbon semi-metallic on one side and kevlar on the other. Bridging the gap between stage 2 and stage 3, the 2+ offers drivability and engagement quality characteristic of the stage 2, but with a 15-20% higher torque capacity. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Great for street, drag, autocross, road racing, pulling, rally and drift. (782 ft lbs torque capacity) $479SPEC STAGE 3 CLUTCH DISC & PRESSURE PLATE ( picture ) *Features a carbon semi-metallic 6 puck sprung hub disc that has been the leading puck clutch in drivability, life and torque capacity. This unit is designed for street and race cars that require an aggressive but streetable engagement and high torque capacity. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Great for street, drag, road racing, pulling, rally and drift. (832 ft lbs torque capacity) $659SPEC STAGE 3+ CLUTCH DISC & PRESSURE PLATE ( picture ) *The flagship stage for a high powered street or race car that requires a manageable and friendly engagement, the stage 3+ features a carbon semi-metallic full faced material that offers unparalleled life, friction coefficient and drivability characteristics in one single package. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Great for street, drag, autocross, road racing, pulling, rally and drift. (967 ft lbs torque capacity) $479SPEC STAGE 4 CLUTCH DISC & PRESSURE PLATE ( picture ) *This unit is a solid hub version of the stage 3. The hub is solid 8- rivet and the assembly is heat treated for strength and durability. It�s available in a 3, 4, or 6 puck configuration. Use the 3 puck for the lightest option or the 6 puck for the smoothest engagement. The 4 puck is a good compromise for both. Street drivable in 6 puck configuration, but not street friendly due to the rigid hub. Best for drag, road racing, pulling, rally and drift. (832 ft lbs torque capacity) $619SPEC STAGE 5 CLUTCH DISC & PRESSURE PLATE ( picture ) *Features a full-metallic disc with the highest possible friction coefficient. Street drivable but not street-friendly. The hub is a solid 12-rivet and the assembly is heat treated for strength and durability. Best for extreme street and drag racing. (1060 ft lbs torque capacity) $245LS Series CUSTOM FUEL REGULATOR/FILTER/RETURN COMPLETE KIT: With correct fittings for your Porsche stock fuel lines.$140 / pr.ENERGY SUSPENSION MOTOR MOUNT UPGRADE: Plus mount modification. $90 added to upgrade stock mounts included with basic conversion kit.$250 / pr.CUSTOM BUILT POWER STEERING LINES: Cores required. (need both pressure and return off of the rack(Porsche) and power steering pump pressure side fitting(GM))$270LS1 STARTER: New$229LS3 STARTER: New$130LS Series/LT-1 CUSTOM CV/TRANSAXLE MOUNTED SPEED SENSOR KIT: With reluctor, speed sensor and bracket (Picture). $595MODIFIED INTAKE KIT: This kit requires modification of the hood latch assembly, clearancing of the hood and the need for hood pins.( pictures ). $75LS Series TO 944 CUSTOM THROTTLE CABLE$29HEATER CONTROL H VALVE: The LS Series heater return loop must remain intact for the required bypass system designed into the motor. If you plan to run a heater, this type of H valve is required.$4,595944 "993 BIG RED" BRAKE UPGRADE KIT: Complete with brand new 993TT Calipers and hardware, 993TT cross drilled rotors, Caliper Adapters, Rotor Hats, Brake Pads, 928 Proportioning Valve, and Custom Brake Lines. (Requires late model turbo struts and hubs)
Sours: http://www.renegadehybrids.com/944/LS-1/LS-1.html
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I did the swap in my 86 and used the 968 torque tube to mate up to a 944S tranny w/LSD, so that does work. I made a thin metal gasket to go between the torque tube housing and tranny to keep dirt and water out. I put in a 951 radiator which required the lower radiator support from a 951 and a plug to block off an unused outlet.

As for wiring, you use the 968 harness and computer with a few wiring mods that you can find if you search the list, mainly a 12V continuous source to a couple pins and running the tach output to the 4 pin connector in your existing harness. I installed a late model dash cluster with the engine warning light and wired that in too.

944/968 Engine Swap Wiring Changes

14 Pin Connector By Brake Booster

Years represent  actual  years used but should carry across all years for model  range

Pin #968 (‘93)944 (’86)944 S (’87)
1Ignition coil term 1Ignition coil term 1Ignitor term 5*
2DME relay term 87DME relay term 87DME relay term 87
3DME relay term 87DME relay term 87DME relay term 87
4Fuel pumpFuel pumpFuel pump
5DME relay term 85bDME relay term 85bDME relay term 85b
6Oil press. GaugeOil press. GaugeOil press. Gauge
7DME relay term 8512V during starting (term 50 ign switch)Unused??
8Water temp gaugeWater temp gaugeWater temp gauge
9Oil press idiot lightOil press idiot lightOil press idiot light
10Water temp idiot lightWater temp idiot lightWater temp idiot light
11Not usedNot usedNot used
1212 V fuse #7Unused ?12 V from fuse #7
13Not UsedAC CompressorAC compressor
14Not UsedNot usedGround for ignition coil wire (sheath of pin 1 wire)

*  This wire runs to the ignitor module on the 944S, this is not used with 968 motor, disconnect  the ignitor plug (located behind left headlight  on inner fender) pull back the rubber boot and splice the green wires together  to send the DME signal straight  to the coil.

As you can see for the ‘S’ no wiring changes need to be made at the 14 pin connector  located behind  the brake booster.  On the 944, obviously pin 7 must not have 12V since this is a ground signal sent from the 968 DME to 85 term of DME relay the 944 models have term 85 grounded directly,   you don’t want  the wire on the 944 side of the connector  hooked up or you will fry the DME, the S.  It appears  that  you need to supply a 12V source on pin 12 on the normal 944.

Connector  DME Passenger Footwell

 (14 pin for 968 (smaller is tiptronic connector),  4 pin for 944 and 8 pin for 944 S

Pin #968 (’93)944 (’86)944S (’87)
1Not usedConsumption GaugeConsumption Gauge
2Tach signalTach SignalTach signal
3AC signal to DMENot used (boost gauge)Not used (boost gauge)
4AC relayNot used (boost gauge)Not used (boost gauge)
5AC relayNANot used
6Speedometer ??NANot used
7Switched 12V (from alarm)NADiagnostic plug (12V)
8Oil level  idiot lightNAOil level  idiot light
9 NANA
10Diagnostic K leadNANA
11Check engine lightNANA
12Diagnostic L leadNANA
13Engine  KnockNANA
14Not usedNANA

As you can see the change that needs to be made is to have a switched 12V supply to pin 7 on the 968 14 pin connector (the connectors aren’t compatible so you will need to splice) on the 944S you can get this from pin 7 the 12V source for the diagnostic plug,  in the 968 the signal comes from the factory alarm,  if the alarm is tripped then no 12V and car doesn’t run.

Disclaimer

Use this info at your own risk.  The standard 944 info is done by extrapolation, the 944S info is based upon my notes from personal experience swapping a ‘93 968 engine into a ’87 944S.

944 S2 Engine

14 Pin Connector by Brake Booster

Years represent actual years used but should carry across all years for model range

Pin #944S2(‘90)944 (’86)944 S (’87)
1Ignitor term 5Ignition coil term 1Ignitor term 5
2DME relay term 87DME relay term 87DME relay term 87
3DME relay term 87DME relay term 87DME relay term 87
4Fuel pumpFuel pumpFuel pump
5DME relay term 85bDME relay term 85bDME relay term 85b
6Oil press. GaugeOil press. GaugeOil press. Gauge
7unused12V during starting (term 50 ign switch)Unused??
8Water temp gaugeWater temp gaugeWater temp gauge
9Oil press idiot lightOil press idiot lightOil press idiot light
10Water temp idiot lightWater temp idiot lightWater temp idiot light
11Not usedNot usedNot used
1212 V fuse #7Unused?12 V from fuse #7
13AC CompressorAC CompressorAC compressor
14Ground for ignitor wire (sheath of pin 1 wire)Not usedGround for ignitor wire (sheath of pin 1 wire)

Connector DME Passenger Footwell

 (14 pin for 944 S2, 4 pin for 944 and 8 pin for 944 S

Pin #944S2 (’90)944 (’86)944S (’87)
1Not usedConsumption GaugeConsumption Gauge
2Tach signalTach SignalTach signal
3Not used (boost gauge)Not used (boost gauge)Not used (boost gauge)
4Not used (boost gauge)Not used (boost gauge)Not used (boost gauge)
512 V fuse 17NANot used
6unusedNANot used
7UnusedNADiagnostic plug (12V)
8Oil level idiot lightNAOil level idiot light
9UnusedNANA
10Diagnostic K leadNANA
11Diagnosis PlugNANA
12Diagnostic L leadNANA
13Diagnostic plugNANA
14Not usedNANA

Installing an S2 engine into a non-S chassis is actually more difficult than the 968 engine.  This is due to the fact the S2 still uses the ignitor circuit that must be integrated into the non-S chassis in order to get the motor to work.  This wire is shielded running from the 14-pin connector to the ignitor and on the other side from the connector to the DME.  This reason alone makes the 968 swap easier into a non-S chassis than the S2 motor. 

In an S chassis it is a non-issue since you use the existing ignitor and its’ wiring.  It appears that a 12V switched source is needed to pin 5 to power the DME similar to the 968 motor

Again, this info is supplied only for reference, I have not personally performed the S2 motor swap.

Todd Holyoak 2003

14pin Connector DME Passenger Footwell pin # 7 needs 12v from term 15 of ignition switch (black) instead of alarm input

one note that i havent seen anybody mention, Pin 8 in the footwell needs to be spliced with pin 8 on the new harness, i couldnt for the life of me figure out why my engine oil level light wouldnt go out so after 8 hours of staring at the wiring diagrams for my 89 944 and the 92 968 i found what i missed.

From the service manuals, in kilograms:

  • 8-valve NA………166kg
    16-valve…………175kg
    Turbo……………..182kg
    968……………….172kg

Hi, have you installed the injector ballast resistor pack? This is something that the 8V engines do not have, so sometimes gets overlooked. There is a connector for it on the LH side (near where the cruise control actuator would sit). It is a big round plug. This connectors to the resistor pack that is bolted in that location under a plate. If you have it all installed, always check the connectors as corrosion can cause all sorts of issues here.

You need to use turbo radiator and radiator support 

I got a set of stainless steel fuel lines from Rennbay.com. You have to remove the pressure fittings from the hardline on the 944 side, where it comes out of the body by the passenger front wheel. After you peel back those pressure fittings (a PITA), you can crimp the new lines on there using clamps. On the other ends, you will need to use the screw end from the 944 for the smaller diameter line, and you will need to track down a 968 fuel line to remove the larger screw end. Crimp this end to the larger 944 line. I know this all might seem confusing but it will make sense when you see it.

You need the 968 oil cooler, harness, computer with all sensers, and throttle cable. Short of the wiring it’s just a bolt in, plus you have to build the piping to go from S2 air box to the 968 intake.

Categories Porsche 944 - LS Swapped, Porsche 944 LS Swap Adaptor Plate, Porsche 944 LS Swap Bell Housing, Porsche 944 LS Swap Torque TubeSours: http://944lsswap.com/944-ls3-conversion/
Ride Along : Porsche 944 Turbo LS Swapped

How to Convert the PORSCHE 924 / 944 to V8 power

HOW TO CONVERT THE PORSCHE 924 / 944 TO V8 POWER

Driving an 80's Porsche model 944 or 924 can be one of the liveliest and entertaining experiences anyone can have. With near perfect 50/50 weight distribution, due to the engine in the front and transaxle in the rear, these cars were very fast and nimble for their time as well as today. However, since the 80's and 90's these models have seen major maintenance bills and strife due to their four cylinder engines. Whereas one person pays these bills to keep the car stock and completely "Porsche," others tend to think outside of the box.

The Porsche 924 and 944 share a common feature; a four cylinder engine with a degradable rubber timing belt, and pistons that do not clear the valves if the timing belt breaks. After so many years, the timing belt must be replaced along with its tensioner, rollers and other related items. This is no small task as well as quite expensive. Nevertheless, many of these cars have been scraped simply because of this kind of incident.

Another issue included the mere price of performance modifications. There was never a high demand for aftermarket support in the way of engine internals which made it hard or even impossible for most to compete with others such as Chevy and Ford. What's more, the Porsche engines had a limit as to how high horsepower and torque numbers could go reliably.

The 924/944 series models have a 4 cylinder slanted engine mated to a driveshaft (torque tube) and then to a transaxle in the rear of the car. This set-up is also seen in the C5 Corvettes and Saleens. The weight distribution allows for easy high speed cornering with little roll as compared to other cars where the transmission is directly behind the engine. Although these cars were not designed for straight line drag-racing, they handle twisty-turning roads quite well. If you intend to drag race this car, you will be disappointed as most cars designed for that have solid rear axles or CV joints connected to a differential. Moreover, the ring and pinion in the transaxle of these models are prone to explosions from wreckless take-offs and drag racing which often costs the owner a lot of money to rectify.

Chevrolet eight cylinder engines are very reliable, cheap to maintain and upgrade. They have loads of horsepower and torque in their stock form, and have extremely high aftermarket support. It is no surprise that this would become the answer for some who wish to keep their 924s and 944s on the road when replacement engines are unobtainable or highly cost ineffective.

The conversion is pretty straight forward and easy to accomplish by do-it-yourselfer's in as little as a weekend’s time. Cost is a very constant question when contemplating such a drastic move and there is no real answer. A typical conversion, assuming you already have one of these models, is roughly 6-18 thousand dollars. This also assumes that you yourself will be doing all the work. However, having a local garage do the work could range between 10-21 thousand dollars and up. This is all subjective in that different people want different things from their car, for example, where one would just want the bare essentials i.e. no air conditioning, no power steering, or stock horsepower and torque numbers, another may want all of the above as well as 500 horsepower and a supercharger. Another point is that whenever you go from a 130 horsepower 4 cylinder engine to a 300+ chevy V8, you have to think about other changes such as brakes, shocks, coolers, etc. So the price could fluctuate quite a bit.

The first thing to do when considering an engine swap is to find the resources that allow you to do so. A fair amount of fabrication could be done to accomplish the transplant in a 924/944, and some aftermarket conversion parts are still available for the 924/944 small block conversion. Anyone wanting to do this conversion with the LSx series V8 from Chevrolet can easily source the required parts, or have the custom pieces fabricated. These engines feature aluminum blocks, as opposed to the earlier V8's that were cast iron blocks, and are all fuel injected. These engines produce a large sum of power in stock form and with simple cost-effective upgrades (i.e. cam shaft) can easily see upwards 450-500 horsepower, which makes this engine a very easy choice for a swap.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED If you decide you are ready to do an engine swap, you will need to obtain a conversion kit, or you may choose to purchase or fabricate the parts individually. You will also need to purchase an engine. Small block V8 engines are still plentiful and inexpensive, as are the LT1 engines. A complete LT1 with PCM and harness can be had for as little as $500. LSx engines are also readily available for a decent price. Typically, one could find a complete (includes a long block with all accessories) pull-out for around $1,500-$3000. The 5.3L GM truck engines have also became popular, and are around $500 complete. For hood clearance, the LSX intake must be used on the 5.3L. To adapt these engines to the torque tube, you will need a special bellhousing that bolts to the V8 block, houses the clutch components, and then to torque tube. QuickTime Inc. offers a spun-steel bellhousing that fits well inside the 944 tunnel. As of now, the '97 up Corvette C5 bellhousing and a custom adapter for the torque tube is the most cost effective solution. Another option is the stock GM SBC bellhousing, and fabrication of an adapter plate system developed by 944Hybrids Board members. These bellhousings are still readily available, and can be had for as little as $25. Obtaining an engine of the LSX variety requires a little more work as many came with the 4L60 or T56 transmissions where the bellhousing is not useful. However, you can buy an earlier bellhousing from a C5 Corvette to bolt to the LS engine and then have a plate machined to fit between the end of the bellhousing and the mating surface of the torque tube. The clutch components are plentiful, cheap, and readily available from any parts house. The Porsche 924/944 driveshaft splines match that of many vehicles including early Mopar. Basically you are going to be looking for are 1" x 23 spline 10.5" or 11" diameter disc, 153 tooth flywheel and a pressure plate to fit accordingly. The LSX engines utilize the stock GM flywheel and clutch components.

MOUNTS The mounts are pretty basic. There have been many different configurations made by lots of do-it-yourselfers. A tubular mount has been used with great success, however, you may just decide to fabricate your own that attach to the engine block and then to the OE cross-member.

EXHAUST The LT1 and LSX OEM headers that may come with the engine do not lend themselves well to retrofit. They have been found to clash with available space in the 924/944 engine bay. For LT1/4 engines, the headers part number CC90 driver side and CC2 passenger side from Sanderson Headers are the perfect fit (Paul Mellor). The headers should run into a 3" exhaust to a 3" converter and all the way out for best performance. The LTX and LSX engines all use OBDII computers which require 4 oxygen sensors, with the exception of earlier LT1 engines that utilize OBDI and 2 O2 sensors. However, on the later 96+ LTX/LSX engines, 2 of them can be successfully programmed out, unless your local state laws prohibit this type of modification. As well, the emissions system may also be programmed out if allowed by your local laws.

ELECTRICAL The electrical system part of the conversions scares most people from attempting such a swap. However, this need not be the case. With the support of companies such as Painless Wiring, lt1swap.com, and PCMforless.com, etc., the factory GM harness is can be successfully modified. The factory Porsche engine harness is completely eliminated. No need to splice in here or there. The Chevy harness is close to stand alone where a mere 9-10 wire hook-up is required for fuel pump, tachometer, oil psi, water temp, AC, and other related functions. The wiring should take very little time at all with the use of the service manual from GM and Porsche together.

TRANSMISSION Many will say that the transaxle should be replaced with a Chevy transmission, or that the stock Porsche transaxle will not take the abuse of a V8. This is simply not true. However, the 924 transaxle is weak, and should be replaced with the 944 unit. The 924 torque tube is also a point of weakness, although some have used the 924 TT without incident. The gearing of the transaxles used in these cars is very usable. The NA (normally aspirated) and turbo version transaxles are said to hold a reasonable 400lbs. of torque. Whereas there have been a few people who have transplanted various Chevy transmissions into their 924s or 944s, it is rare and very difficult to accomplish/justify. The NA transmission allows for a very fast take-off with the right clutch action. For increased drivability and strength, the turbo LSD transaxle can be retrofitted with the N/A 5th gearset.

BRAKES Brakes should remain a great concern here. When increasing the pure power the car generates, stopping that power is just as important. The energy the engine produces is transformed to heat from the brakes. If the brake pad area is too small or the brake system is faulty, you could be looking at major damage to property or death. The 924/944 NA brakes are considered too small for even mild V8 power and should be converted to the bigger and stronger 944 turbo versions. However, the inner and outer spindle diameters on all 944s prior to 1987 are the same and became a source of minor problems (fracturing) with the heaviest brake set up from '83 to '86 which was on the '86 944 turbo. This issue became more prevalent when '86 turbo owners upgraded the front brakes to larger calipers and rotors WITHOUT changing the spindle to the post '86 version. This change also requires going from the "short version" of the front suspension A-Arm to the "long version" that was stock on all 944s after '86.

If you own a 924, many will explain that in order to build a fast, fun, and safe V8 car, you should sell the 924 and buy a 944T. This makes sense for the fact that the brakes and suspension as well as the transaxle gearing and strength is perfect for V8 power. If you decide to keep your 924/944 NA for this conversion, you may be paying what you would in difference just to convert it to 944T specs.

If you own a Normally Aspirated 944, many will explain that in order to build a fast, fun, and safe V8 car, you should sell the 944NA and buy a 944 Turbo. This makes sense for the fact that the brakes and suspension, as well as the transaxle gearing and strength are perfect for V8 power. If you decide to keep your 944NA for this conversion, you may be paying what you would in difference just to convert it to 944T specs. However, you can simply upgrade the brake system with 993TT brake calipers, pads, and rotors (requires 17" and up rims), or one of the custom brake setups being developed by 944Hybrids members.

- 944-LT1

Sours: https://944hybrids.forumotion.com/t82-how-to-convert-the-porsche-924-944-to-v8-power

Ls swap guide 944

Yeah, hard-core repeat offenders in diapers and tights, - Lena laughed. I wonder why there are so many of them today, Natasha said. Thoughtfully.

How To LS Swap A Porsche 944 - Part 1

From a distance, I took it for a city, it looked such a large point against the background of the reddish surface of the planet. Mineral springs on the planet were rich, but the desert, the thinning layer of the atmosphere made the stay of people on its surface unbearable. Therefore, automatic machines and slaves worked at the mines, the governing bodies were located on the platform.

The results of the quarantine imposed by the Confederation and the Security Council on the Territories, in the form of empty berths at the berth for a dozen. Ore transport ships at the berths, did not give rise to a feeling of ebullient life on the platform.

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