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DIY Belt Squat Machine

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The Belt Squat Machine is one of the most coveted pieces of gym equipment available today. Although there are many options, including those made by Westside Barbell, Pit Shark, Matt Wenning, and others, they're all pretty pricey. This DIY Belt Squat Machine requires no special skills and costs well under any other available options.

What is a Belt Squat Machine?

The belt squat machine is a great tool to have in your arsenal. It provides an easy way to add volume on squats without putting extra stress on your back and other supporting muscles.

Rather than the load being placed on your spine while doing a back squat using a barbell, the belt squat allows the load to be placed on the hips. In addition to relieving stress on the back associated with the barbell back squat, it also provides traction to the spine while allowing you to add substantial volume to your legs. One of the unique things about the belt squat is that it also has many other uses as well.

It is great for calf raises, especially for those lacking space, such as a home gym. There are also endless variations of rows and shrugs that can be performed, including deadlifts.

Without question, the belt squat machine is one of the most versatile pieces of equipment you could build.


Parts from Rogue Fitness

Parts from Hardware Store

  • (4) 4x4x8 untreated lumber (treated lumber will warp overtime)
  • (6) 5/8" Pillow Block Bearing UCP202-10 (
  • 4’x4’ sheet ¾” plywood (preferably hardwood)
  • (4) ½” x 6” Lag Bolts
  • (2) ½” x 10” Lag Bolts
  • (8) ½” x 5 ½” Hex Bolts
  • (8) ½” Nylon Lock Nuts
  • (8) ½” Washer
  • (8) ½” x 2” Lag Bolts
  • 5/8” x 36” Steel Rod
  • 5/8” x 36” Threaded Rod
  • 3/4” x 36” Iron Pipe
  • 2 ½” pocket hole screws
  • Wood Glue (Titebond III was used)
  • JB KwikWeld


Cut Sheet Diagrams

Rogue Fitness Crossmembers


Note: Be sure to refer back to these images when making cuts.

Build Instructions

The first step is to cut out the crossmembers with a bandsaw or some other metal-cutting tool, such as a handsaw. Wood is cheap if you mess up but, these Rogue Crossmembers are not.

Make sure you measure twice and make cuts in the right order, or your holes won’t line up. Refer to the cut sheet above.

1. Cutting Crossmembers

  • Make 10.5” cuts from end of 43” crossmembers
  • Make 26” cuts measuring from where you just made the 10.5” cuts
  • Then make your 20” cut from your third crossmember

2. Drill holes in the 43” Crossmember to mount your cut pieces to

  • Drill Four total 5/8” holes
  • Center your 20” piece and mark your holes
  • Start with a 1/4” drill bit and move up to the 5/8”
  • Be careful to drill your holes as straight as possible
  • If you end up being off a little bit, use a unibit to widen the holes
  • After inner two holes are drilled test fit your pieces and drill outer holes
  • See pictures for guidance

3.Drill 5/8” holes in the sides of your 10.5” pieces

  • Start holes about 1/2” from the cut edge of the crossmember

4. Assembly of Crossmembers

  • Assemble the pieces you have cut accordingto the picture below. Using (8) 5/8”x 4-1/2” Bolts included with the extension kit
  • Once everything is test fit, then tighten.

Once these steps have been completed, the most difficult work is behind us. It is important to drill the holes straight and keep everything as square as possible. If you’re off by a little, it should be okay, but the more straight the holes, the better off you'll be.

5. Base Construction

  • Make the cuts for the base. Refer to the cut sheet diagram for exact cuts
  • Make sure to make your cuts in the order shown in the picture
  • After cuts, write the length of each piece on the end to prevent any confusion
  • Set the save piece aside, it will be used for a later step

6. Base Assembly

  • Edge glue your 22” 4×4 sections together.
    • Use plenty of glue and clamp together for at least 24hours. No screws will be required you will be adding lag bolts later.
    • Allow the glue to set overnight
  • Using a pocket hole jig, drill holes for 2.5” pocket hole screws in each end of the front and back of your 17.5” pieces.
    • Attach 17.5” pieces to your glued 22” piece using pocket hole screws and wood glue. (use glue at every wood joint)
    • Attach the 36” piece to the other ends of your 17.5” pieces
    • Make sure to center the 36” piece before attaching, 7” from outside edges
  • Using a pocket hole jig (Kreg Jig) drill holes for 2.5” pocket hole screws in each end and in the front and back of your 12” pieces
    • Attach your 12” pieces to the ends of the 36” piece using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws and wood glue
  • Using a pocket hole jig (Kregg Jig) drill holes for 2.5” pocket hole screws in each end and in the front and back of all 4 32” pieces
    • Attach these to the ends of 39” pieces with 2-1/2” pocket hole screws and wood glue, creating a square base
    • Insert the other two 32” pieces each 2” from center creating a 4” gap
    • Attach these boards with 2-1/2” pocket hole screws and glue
  • Glue your 4” piece, 14” from front of platform
  • Attach your square base to the upright portion using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws and wood glue

7. Platform

  • From your 4’ x 4’ cut your plywood to fit over your 4×4 base.
  • It should be 39” x 39.5” but measure to be sure
    • Note: If you don’t have the tools to do this most hardware stores will make these cuts for you
  • With a jigsaw, cut a 4” x 17.5” rectangle from the center of one side of your plywood
    • Note: This will allow the beam to travel a couple more inches
    • Note: This is optional as with 45s on the plates will hit the floor before the beam does. This is why I have not added any safeties as the plates contact the floor before I would be in danger of injury.

8. Supports

  • Cut (2) 4” pieces and (2) 11” pieces
  • Cut a 45-degree angle on each side of these pieces
  • Attach at edge of upright with wood glue and standard screws
  • The 11” pieces will need to be trimmed to be flush with the edge
    • Note: The base should now be complete

9. Bearings

  • From your 5/8” steel rod, cut (4) 7” pieces
  • Feed the (2) 7” rods through a bearing, then through the crossmember, and finally through the next bearing.
  • Make sure there is enough space for the crossmember to move between the bearings, then tighten the bearing set screws with an Allen Wrench
  • With the same process add bearings to the lowest holes of the 36” extension kit beams
  • Add a bead of JBKwikWeld wherever the steel rods and crossmembers meet. This ensures that the unit rotates on the bearing and not on the steel rod.

10. Cutting the Extensions

  • Depending on how close your holes on your crossmembers were to the edge, you may need to add some wood spacers.
  • With your bearings sitting flush on the floor, you should be able to move the unit freely. If it contacts the ground the spacers will be needed
    • Note: This does not apply to the extensions uprights, as we actually want them to contact the ground
  • I needed to add (4) 5.5” x 3/4” pieces of plywood under the four bearings to get my clearance
  • Once these are cut center them on each bearing and mark your holes
  • Drill 1/2” holes and set these aside until finally assembly

11. Lag Bolts

  • Pre-drill 1/2” holes for the lag bolts
    • Note: I have countersunk mine for aesthetic purposes but it is only required on the bottom two

12. Assembly

  • Set your base on its back so the platform is standing up
  • Place crossmembers with bearings on the 22” boards that were glued together
  • Center and square up the crossmember, then mark the holes through the bearings
  • Remove crossmember and drill 1/2" holes
  • Set your crossmember over holes (add spacers if you needed them)
  • Put your 1/2" x 5-1/2” bolts through the holes then stand the unit up
    • Note: You may require extra help here
  • Add 1/2" washers and lock nuts to the back side and tighten

13. Upright Assembly

  • Hold the crossmember level
    • Note: You may require extra help for this step
  • Bring your uprights with bearings attached and get them square with uprights at the edges of the platform
  • Mark the holes for the bearing mounts and pre-drill
  • Attach with 1/2” x 2” Lag bolts
    • Note: Be sure that outer lag bolts bite into 4×4,not plywood
  • Measure the space between the two uprights and cut your 3/4" x 36” iron pipe to fit in between
  • Run the 5/8” all tread through the uprights and the pipe
  • Add nuts and washer at each end and tighten

14. Stoppers

  • Your uprights are naturally going to stop at a good point when they make contact with the platform
    • Note:These stoppers strengthen that point of contact to make sure you can put weight on the uprights
  • Start with a 4×4 scrap with 45-degree cuts at both sides
  • Set your uprights back to the working position
  • Using a protractor or similar device find the angle that it sets back at
  • Cut this angle off one of your 45-degree edges

15. Trimming the J-Cups

  • Simply cut off the angled part of the J-Cup so it has a flat racking surface
  • Attach J-cups to uprights and position crossmember at desired heights
    • Note: This step is not necessary, but it gave me a much better rack position

16. Final Steps

  • Attach your Plate storage posts using supplied hardware
  • It is completed now…
    • Squat, squat, and squat some more
    • Get major gains
    • Get creative with new uses

Ways to Save Money During Build

There are several places that corners can be cut to save some money.

The biggest one is the extension kit for the uprights. If you don’t care about it being adjustable, there is no reason that you couldn’t make them out of 4x4s. Giving up adjustability would save you from having to buy the extension kit and J-cups. That’s a savings of over $245.

If you or someone you know can weld, this could be made for close to half the price. Using crossmembers and uprights from other companies also offers potential cost savings.

Finally, the uprights don’t really need bearings. It would be pretty simple and cheap to design another way for it to pivot, but this was the easiest option.

Tips & Tricks

First of all, this unit will not be identical to mine as I tried to simplify some steps and improve upon others.

I countersunk all lags and screws and filled all screw, lag, and pocket holes with wood filler. I then sanded the entire thing and painted it. This is a worthwhile step if you want it to look clean and professional. I also rabbited the 4x4s on the outside of my base and cut my plywood to sit inside the rabbited boards. This makes it look cleaner and hides all the plywoodedges. I did not include this step because not everyone has these tools and it likely decreases the strength of the platform.

Other things you can do is add 3×3 plastic end caps to make it look finished. Also take 3 in1 oil, sandpaper, and then steel wool to your iron pipe before painting, otherwise, the rust will bleed through your paint. For those interested, I used parakeet green paint from Valspar which matched my green Rogue RML-490C exactly.

I also used a Kreg Jig for my pocket hole joints, and, if you are a DIYer, it will come in handy over and over again.

I am quite certain someone can come up with a better idea for the stoppers. If you do, please let us know in the comments.

Finally, I have squatted up to 500 pounds on this unit so far. After the 500-pound squat, I decided to add some L brackets from Lowes where the base meets and goes up. Obviously, 4×4 construction is not as strong as steel. If you want to go another step in strengthening the unit, I have an idea. Add eye bolts to the base and outside bearings, and tension them with wire rope. This would pretty much guarantee that your belt squat will handle anything you throw at it.

Further reading

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10+ Homemade Gym Equipment Ideas to Build Your Own Gym

Gym memberships can add up quickly and the gym is often overcrowded when you finally do find the time to get there. And most gyms are still closed, unfortunately, due to the Coronavirus. Manufactured gym equipment can be extremely costly, it's typically very heavy, and it's difficult to move. Instead of going with one of these two traditional options, why not build your own gym equipment?

To prove that building your own gym equipment doesn't have to be difficult, we've compiled 10+ homemade gym equipment ideas built by our customers using Kee Klamp fittings and pipe.

Kee Klamp fittings are strong, adjustable, easy to assemble and dissemble, and easy to work with. That's why popular Parkour gyms and even adventure races like the Ultimate Athlete Games and the Spartan Race have chosen Kee Klamp to build their fitness structures.

But, you don't need to be one of these huge gyms to build your own equipment. To help spark your own creative builds, here are 10+ gym equipment ideas that you can build yourself using Kee Klamp:

Simple Fit Workout and Power Tower

We have a kit for this project that you can check out here:

Our Simple Fit Workout Tower is a versatile, all-in-one workout machine that was designed to be as simple as possible to install virtually anywhere in very little time. This makes it easy to move in the future. Made of heavy-duty galvanized steel, this system is built to last, while helping you exercise multiple muscle groups, for full-body fitness training.

This DIY Power Tower & Pull-Up Station can be used with a variety of workouts including pull-ups, chin-ups, dips, knee raises, abdominal exercises, push-ups, and sit-ups.

The tower was designed with the idea that staying healthy and fit at home should be easy! (Although it may not feel like it in the middle of a high-intensity workout.)

Common Question: Are home pull-up bars safe?

Answer: In general, home pull-up bars are safe for the average person. An in-ground pull-up bar is typically going to be sturdier than a store-bought, hang-in-door bar. DIY pull-up bar safety is going to range from the level of care put into the installation and engineering.

Adjustable Pipe Pull-Up Bar

DIY Free Standing Pull-Up Bar

This pull-up bar was built by Charles Rankin in order to train for the world record for the number of chin-ups completed in 24 hours. But, you don't need to a world record trainee to build one just like it.

The pull-up bar is completely free standing and has practically no give when completing pull-ups or chin-ups. One of the biggest advantages to building a freestanding pull-up bar like this one is that you can build it to whatever height you like. Also, unlike most gym equipment, it can easily disassembled and reassembled.

Common Question How much weight can a home pull-up bar hold?

Answser: Typical home pull-up bars can hold about 300 lbs, with some going all the way down to 200 lb depending on the type. Of course, a DIY pull-up bar can be customized to hold the necessary weight by using the correct materials. Galvanized steel and metal fittings installed directly into the structure will be able to hold more weight than a store-bought, place-in-door pull-up bar.

If you want to build a pull-up bar just like the one Charles built, you can read our full step-by-step tutorial for his project here.

Pipe Pull-Up Bar

Charles isn't the only one of our customers to build a pull-up bar, though. We've seen customers build all sorts of different designs. The one above features a similar design but we've also seen a few wall mounted pull-up bars (as pictured below):

Build A Home Gym From Industrial Pipe

Here's a pull-up bar structure, used by CrossFit Vulcan that features different heights and has the ability to support multiple people. It is also mounted to the wall to provide a more permanent placement. The differing heights allow for multiple people to use the bars at once. A big part of CrossFit is the community aspect, so Buster, the assembler of this particular structure, made sure that this pull-up structure accommodated that.

Common Question: How do you make a homemade pull-up bar?

Answer: Whether you build your own home gym or just want a DIY pull-up bar, there are some considerations to take into account first: do you want an in-ground pull-up bar, a hang-in-the-doorway pull-up bar, or a structurally installed pull-up bar? Either way, modular pipe and fittings can be custom designed, adjusted, and/or repurposed for whatever your needs may be. Using a hex key, some fittings, and the pipe, you can configure any style pull-up bar. You can either get a design created for you or have pipe sent over and use your own pipe saw to cut the lengths you need.

Pipe Pull Up Bar

Here's yet another pull-up bar structure that was built by Brian in Milford, Connecticut. The pull-up bar features multiple stations that are used by Brian to run small fitness classes and rehabilitate physical therapy patients.

Common Question: What is the best home pull-up bar?

Answer: For home pull-up bars, there are many different styles, configurations, and materials to consider. There are in-ground pull-up bars, DIY pull-up bars, and pull-up bars that can be made from materials at Home Depot. The best kind of pull-up bar material is galvanized steel because it will stand up to sweat, last decades, and, depending on the style of pull-bar, can be adjusted or repurposed to your desire.

Homemade Dip Station

Homemade Dip Station

Erik in New York, New York built this DIY dip station. Most of the frame is constructed using 2x4s while Kee Klamp fittings and pipe are used to create the dip station bars. These bars rest in a circular grove cut out from the horizontal wood supports.

To keep the pipe bars from moving, the collar fitting is used on the inside of the wood boards. This fitting slides over the pipe bars and locks in place to keep the pipe bars from sliding.

At the top of the dip station, there are three horizontal pipe bars. These add additional support to the structure, but can also be used to do pull-ups. These pipe bars are connected using the flange fitting.

DIY Balance Rail

DIY Balance Rail

Here's another balance structure that was built by Micaiah in Mobile, Alabama. The structure is meant to improve balance and jumping ability for beginner Parkour enthusiasts. Again, the structure is very simple, utilizing just one type of fitting. The side outlet elbow fitting is used to connect the horizontal bars to the structure's "legs". Plastic plugs are used to cap off the exposed ends of pipe.

We also offer this as our Precision Bar Kit.

DIY Pipe Squat Rack

Pipe Squat Rack

The squat rack is the workhorse of any gym. However, most manufactured squat racks or cages are quite expensive. They can also be very difficult to move or fit into your house. Especially, when trying to fit one into your basement since you need to move it down a flight of stairs.

Building a squat rack with Kee Klamp fittings, however, is a different story. Since any Kee Klamp built structure can be dissembled and reassembled, the entire squat rack can be taken apart in order to be easily moved.

The squat rack featured above uses a few important fittings. The side outlet elbow is used at the top of the frame to connect the four sides. The single swivel socket is used to create the supports at each corner. Lastly, the flange fitting is used for the squat rack "feet".

DIY Pipe Gymnastics Bar

DIY Gymnastics Bar

We've had multiple customers build gymnastics bars using Kee Klamp. The one above was built by Brian as a Christmas present for his daughter (read the full step-by-step plans for this gymnastics bar here).

A big advantage of using Kee Klamp fittings to build a gymnastics bar is that the bar height is easily adjustable. By adjusting the set screw on each side of the gymnastics bar, the height can be increased or decreased.

This is great to practice different exercises. But, it also allows the bar to be adjusted for young ones who are growing throughout the years and need to adjust the height for their skill and ability. Lastly, the entire gymnastics bar can also be dissembled and reassembled. Thus, making it easier to move or transport.

DIY Indoor Monkey Bars

DIY Indoor Monkey Bar

Monkey bars aren't just for kids. They can be used to build strength in your upper body and core. In addition, they can help improve coordination. If you do any type of Parkour or Ninja Warrior training, monkey bars are a great training tool.

The indoor monkey bars featured above were built by Steve in Pittsboro, North Carolina. The monkey bars allow him and his daughter to train year round in their home fitness studio. To mount the structure to the ceiling, the standard railing flange is used.

To create the actual "monkey bars", the single socket tee is used. This fitting allows pipe to slide through an open socket on one end while terminating a length of pipe at the other end. Since the fitting is locked down using a set screw, the bars can be adjusted in distance by loosening the set screw on the fitting, resetting the position, and tightening the set screw back down.

DIY Pipe Weight Rack

Pipe Weight Rack

Have a lot of weights? You'll need somewhere to store them! This weight rack uses industrial pipe to create the rack frame and cinder blocks are used for the base. Using pipe to create a weight rack like this allows you to build one specific to your weight set.

If cinder blocks aren't your thing, we have multiple different fittings that can act as footing as well. You are also able to add multiple tiers to the rack to support even more weights. We also provide a handy pipe selection guide that details how much weight a certain span of piping can hold without additional supports.

Volleyball/Punching Bag Station

Pipe Volley Ball Station

This unique use of Kee Klamp fittings creates a station for Volleyball practice inside the house without having to worry about breaking anything. The station can be used to build hand and eye coordination, speed, and strength. The volleyball is attached to the frame using bungee cords. This design could also be used to support a speed punching bag.

While most of the structure featured above was built using clear PVC pipe, Kee Klamp fittings and pipe could be used instead to create a stronger and more stable structure.

DIY Wing Chun Dummy

Build A Home Gym From Industrial Pipe

This crazy looking structure is known as a wing chun dummy and is used to practice various martial arts techniques. The design is unique and looks like something you might see in a Transformers movie. While the design goes a bit overboard in terms of functionality, it's definitely a conversation starter.

However, if you want to build something similar, you don't need to use as complex of a design as this person did. Some of the important fittings used in this project include the single swivel socket and the obtuse angle elbow.

DIY Parkour Structure

Backyard Parkour Structure

We've had many customers build Parkour and American Ninja Warrior training structures using Kee Klamp fittings. This structure built by Daniel in Fallston, Maryland is just one of them.

We've featured it in this list because it represents one of the simpler designs we've seen and it's a manageable build for most people that just want to build a smaller unit for training at home. The design could also be modified to create a pull-up bar/dip station.

At the top of the frame, the side outlet elbow fitting is used at each corner to connect the pipe bars. To add the two horizontal pipe supports, the single socket tee fitting is used.

For more Parkour and American Ninja Warrior training structures, check out our Sports & Gym Projects Area here.

Seesaw Balance Structure

DIY Pipe See Saw Balance

This Seesaw balance structure was built by Anthony in Decatur, Georgia. It is used in adventure races put on by Uquest in Atlanta, Georgia and Charlotte, North Carolina. The structure is quite simple using just a 2x10 wood board placed over top the pipe frame.

The important fittings used in this project are the 90 degree elbow and single socket tee.

DIY Nexersys Fitness Machine

DIY Nexersys Fitness Stand

This odd looking structure was built by Tyler in Arnold, Maryland. It's a DIY version of a Nexersys home fitness machine. If you're familiar, the Nexersys is an interactive machine that can be used for boxing and MMA style workouts.

To build the structure, Tyler used Kee Klamp fittings and pipe to create the frame. The pads are attached to the frame using homemade springs. Inside each pad is a simple pressure sensor that is wired to an Arduino microcontroller. These sensors register a hit when a pad is struck.

Tyler wrote a few different computer programs for different workouts that can be used with the machine. Here's what Tyler had to say of the project:

"I built it because my wife has been eyeing the Nexersys unit for a few years now but there was no way we were going to spend near $3000 for a workout machine. My project is still a work in progress, but most of the functional parts are complete, working great, and all for a fraction of the cost of a Nexersys unit."

If you need help creating your own equipment or designing your own gym, we offer free design assistance. Our team here at Simplified Building can assist you in creating a solution that will work for you. If you need a bit more inspiration, try browsing our Sports & Gym section in our Projects Area.

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Homemade Hack Squat Machine

A Must Have Item For Your Home Gym!

Article and photos by Nick Nilsson

Combine the benefits of free weight barbell squats with the benefits of machine squats into one lower-body blasting exercise! All you need is a rack and a barbell andyou'll be able to give your entire lower body a sound thrashing with this homemade hack squat machine.

Hitting the legs HARD is one of my very favorite things to do in the gym. But even for me, there are days when the Barbell Squat is just not on the menu...I either don't feel like doing it that day or I've just done it recently.

rogue power rack

That's where THIS exercise comes into play...the Rack Hack, as I like to call it. Basically, it combines the benefits of free squatting (moving your body through space, supporting the load on yourself, having freedom of movement) with the benefits of the hack squat machine (your body is more stabilized, it's easier to get set up and perform the exercise).

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Usually, you'd think these benefits would be mutually exclusive...after all, how can you maintain freedom of movement where your body is actually more stabilized!

I'll show you...

First you're going to need a power rack and a barbell. Set one of the safety rails up high (about shoulder height) and one of the rails low (around midsection height). When you set a bar on it, it'll be tilted downward at a fairly steep angle.

Before you put any weight on the bar, test the height to make sure you can squat down and get your shoulder under it (because that's what you're going to be doing in the exercise!).

Once you've got the height set, load BOTH ends of the bar. You don't need as much on the higher end - that's more for anchoring the weight. Be careful when you load the bottom end as the plates will have a tendency to slide. Put a plate on then immediately put a collar on.

Now you have a can do the exercise with no padding or with a towel wrapped around the end of the bar (the standard barbell pad won't fit because it would go on the thick end of the bar). In the demo pics, I'm using a towel. If you're using lighter weight, it won't matter so much.

Squat down beside the bar and set your right shoulder under the end. Your back should be right up against the weight plates. Reach up and grip the end of the bar with both hands to keep control of the bar and lock yourself onto it.

Homemade hack squat machine

Now stand up! You'll notice that you're somewhat locked into the movement while still maintaining freedom of movement. The end of the barbell moves freely in space, allowing you to find your own groove in the exercise while still having the one end of the bar anchored so you have a pivot point to move from.

Homemade hack squat machine

This is a VERY effective combination that really does give you the best of both worlds. The other cool thing? You get excellent core training as well, because you're supporting the weight on one shoulder.

Because of that, I recommend alternating sides with the exercise. I do 3 reps on one side then 3 reps on the other side, going back and forth. You can also do your full set of reps on one shoulder, take your rest period (60 to 90 seconds is good) then do your next set on the other shoulder. Either way works just fine.

Homemade hack squat machine
Homemade hack squat machine

I recommend sets of 8 to 12 reps with this exercise but feel free to experiment with different weights and ranges...because the OTHER nice thing about this setup is that you finish at the BOTTOM.

What's so special about that? It means you can push your legs until they're TRASHED and simply set the weight back down on the rack rail without ever worrying about getting stuck under a bar.

So if you're looking for a way to do hack squats and your gym doesn't have the machine for it, this is a very effective homemade hack squat machine. You can also set the bar up higher, set a calf block down and do standing calf raises with this type of setup as well.

When you give this exercise a try and can't walk normally for several days after because your legs are like rubber, you can blame me. I'll accept it.

Nick Nilsson is Vice-President of the online personal training company BetterU, Inc. He has a degree in Physical Education and Psychology and has been inventing new training techniques for more than 18 years. Nick is the author of a number of bodybuilding eBooks including "Muscle Explosion - 28 Days to Maximum Mass", "Metabolic Surge - Rapid Fat Loss," "Muscle Explosion! 28 Days to Maximum Mass," "The Best Exercises You've Never Heard Of," "Gluteus to the Maximus - Build a Bigger Butt NOW!" and "The Best Abdominal Exercises You've Never Heard Of" all available here.

Webmaster’s Note

You have to check out Nick's ebook of unique exercises, like his Nilsson curls which use two barbells.


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While I am here thinking that my husband is all so correct and positive, as he put his eyes on Vika. So much for the positive. On the other hand, I would have read it all yesterday, maybe I would not have racked my brains at night, when we had a group sex. In the tent. But, nevertheless, everything worked out.

Squat machine diy

When we went down to the second floor, she allowed the skirt and top. To be pulled down. We went out into the yard, looked around, made sure that no one was there, and I was again ordered to pull up my clothes. The girl again took my pubic hair and pulled me with her.

DIY Squat/Shoulder/Calf Machine

You did not answer my question. - Leaves the answer. - A couple of times this is not a reason for marriage.

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She stepped over what was called a swimsuit that was now just lying on the sand and headed towards the water, going approximately to the beginning. Of the buttocks, she plunged headlong and stayed under water for what seemed to me quite a long time, although the reason that influenced such a conclusion could be that my a member has already become filled with passion and in my thoughts I was already hugging her from behind, pressing against her with my whole body.

But now her head appeared on the surface and she went further into the sea, I watched her, I already stretched.

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