My Jeep doesn't ride rough at all. There is no reason to accept the rough ride as being a "Jeep thing". Yes, they'll always ride like a solid axle vehicle, but they can be setup to ride really well.
So the biggest thing I see here is it has one of those shitty Rubicon Express long arm lifts from what I can see. I could be wrong, so it would greatly help if you could post photos of the underside. I say shitty because Rubicon Express isn't what I would consider to be a good brand. Will it work? Yes, of course. However, their long-arm lift (like so many others) is poorly designed because it tries to package a long arm setup in a "bolt-on" package, which simply can't be done.
Rubicon Express also uses crappy, low quality bushings which fail much sooner than something like a Johnny Joint. But, you get what you pay for, and a lot of people just cheap out and go with a brand like this because if all you're doing is cruising the mall, who really cares, right?
Anyways, what are you trying to do here? Are you happy with the tire size and the lift height or are you wanting to go down in lift height and tire size?
For ride quality, the major determining factors are going to be tire load rating (a C rated tire will always ride better than an E rated tire), tire pressure (most people are running their tires way too high at over 30 psi, when you should in reality be around 26 psi), and lastly, but most importantly, shocks. The best riding "off-the-shelf" shock I've found is the Rancho RS5000X (and I've tried almost all of them). You can fit a much better shock (i.e. Fox 2.0 smooth body factory shocks) if you outboard the shock mounts, as you can custom tune those shocks. However, that's a big project and certainly not cheap ($1500 just for the shocks, and another $1000 or so for the labor to outboard).
So, you have to tell us what you're wanting to do, how much you're willing to spend, etc.
Accounts of the Jeep Wrangler's infamous "Death Wobble" aren't new with complaints dating back over half a decade at least. Now, there's a fix. According to a report from the Detroit Free Press, the automaker has a fix, and it is already informing owners about the free repair. Jeep will replace the steering damper – a stabilizer – with a new piece designed to mitigate better any vibrations that come through the front suspension.
The "Death Wobble" is a byproduct of the Wrangler's solid front axle design, and can cause the steering wheel to violently shake after hitting a bump or other road imperfection at higher speeds. The issue isn't just a Jeep Wrangler problem though; any vehicle with a solid front axle is susceptible to the issue. However, there are few vehicles with the such a suspension setup on sale today.
The fix comes just two months after Wrangler owners filed a class-action lawsuit against Fiat Chrysler Automobiles, Jeep's parent company. The suit alleges FCA knew about the issue; however, the company neither addressed it nor warned buyers about the potential problem. At the time, FCA would not comment on the pending litigation because it'd not yet been served the lawsuit. The new damper may not be enough to assuage Wrangler owners or those suing the automaker. In the June filing, the suit alleges such fixes are temporary, and the problem could return.
Safety advocates as far back as 2012 have been clamoring for a closer look at the issue. There are numerous complaints of violent shaking filed with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. However, the NHTSA previously indicated it was looking into the problem, and, according to the Detroit Free Press, would update the media once it completed its investigation. Either way, while FCA is offering the fix, it could be sometime before the issue is entirely resolved.
- Dial indicator or tape measure
- Pry bar
- Breaker bar
- Vice grips, pliers
- 3/4" drive ratchet and socket set
If you have a vibration at higher speeds, it could mean that your ball joints are worn.
- Lift the front end, one tire at a time, and place a jack stand under the axle near the floor jack.
- Lower the jack a little to put some pressure and weight onto the jack stand.
- You will need a second person as well as a pry bar to pry up and down under the tire while you watch the play in the lower ball joint.
- Have your helper also grab the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle it in and out while you watch the side to side play in the upper ball joint.
- The lower ball joint up and down play should not exceed 0.050".
- The upper ball joint side to side play should not exceed 0.060".
Figure 1. Measure the play of both the upper and lower ball joints to tell if they are within acceptable operating range.
Many professionals will not measure the play in a ball joint and suggest you replace them in hopes that this solves your vibration problem. Make sure to have them measured because they may not actually be the cause of your suspension issues.
If your ball joints are good, make sure they are properly lubed and check on your CV boots next.
Related article: How to Replace Ball Joints on a Jeep Wrangler JK
Step 2 – Check CV boots for wear or damage
A bad CV boot can't be repaired in the JK, so the drive shaft will need to be replaced.
Symptoms of a bad CV boot involves more of a noise and a clicking sound rather than a bad vibration. If the boot is damaged, the drive shaft will need to be replaced. This isn't a difficult job and can be done in just a couple of hours in your own garage. This will save a lot of money over having a professional do it for you. It does take significant hammering with a large mallet to free up the shaft from the flanges, but no special tools are required, and very few bolts as well as no extra parts need to be removed to do the job. If you get an aftermarket shaft, be sure to get one that has grease points built in to it; this will save you from doing another replacement in the future.
Figure 2. If you have to replace the front drive shaft, consider an aftermarket heavy duty that can be maintained.
If the noise isn't a clicking so much as a popping noise, it could be the U-joints at the sway bar connection.
Step 3 – Disconnect sway bar
If the popping noise stops with the sway bar disconnected, then the U-joints should be replaced.
Some JK owners will disconnected the sway bar and leave it at that to stop the popping noise. The argument is that they never drive at highway speeds or take it off-road. While this may put an end to your symptoms, it is not exactly the safest practice and doesn't really solve the inherent problem. The problem with replacing the U-joints on your JK Wrangler is that this isn't that easy of a job. You will need a helper and a little mechanical know-how to get the job done.
- Raise the Jeep and place on jack stands.
- Remove the wheel and pull off the hub nut. Your helper will have to apply the brakes to break the hub nut free.
- Remove the calipers, rotors and the hub sensor.
- Remove the hub from the knuckle, which is a real bear, and then the axle shaft will pull right out.
- With the shaft out, the hub should come off of the end; however, you may need some spray lubricant to facilitate this.
- When the hub comes off the shaft, the U-joints will be accessible and can be replaced.
Figure 3. Replacing the U-joints may be the solution to your popping noise problem.
If your vibration still persists, ensure proper tire inflation and look for uneven wear from a bad alignment.
Step 4 – Check tires' pressure and alignment
Improper wear on your tires can cause excessive noise and vibration, which is usually caused by an alignment issue.
An alignment would normally be one of the first things to look at, but in many cases, the JK being slightly out of alignment may cause the mechanic to immediately point to the ball joints or the U-joints. Since these are very costly to have repaired, we looked at those components first to ensure that the proper remedy is taken without taking you to the bank. Be sure to learn what the proper settings are for the toe, caster and camber for your alignment. Make sure your tires are properly inflated, rotated and balanced. Again, this would normally be the easiest thing to start off-checking, but to be sure, arm yourself with the proper working knowledge of your joints so they don't get arbitrarily replaced.
Figure 4. The adjusting mechanisms of an alignment.
Figure 5. An example of before and after alignment specifications.
If your vibration is really horrific at higher speeds, you most likely have the dreaded death wobble.
Step 5 – Check suspension components for death wobble
At highway speeds, if your steering wheel takes on a life of its own, you likely have the serious issue of death wobble.
Various suspension components will contribute to the death wobble. The most common issues can be evaluated and remedied on your own, but with such a condition, you may opt to take your JK in to a professional to make sure that you get this correctly resolved. Driving with a death wobble can cause other serious problems with many components of your vehicle.
- Remove the steering stabilizer and have someone turn the steering wheel from full left to full right slowly, and then make quick sudden movements back and forth.
- Look for any play in any of the following: rod ends, drag link ends, trackbar ends and welds. There should be nothing moving out of play at all.
- If nothing looks out of the ordinary, remove the trackbars and look at the bolts and the mounting holes. They may be worn and show movement there.
- Check the trackbar bushings for cracking or splitting. If these are good, replace the trackbar and make sure they are torqued to 125 pounds.
- Inspect the drag link ends and make sure there is no up and down play. Replace with heavy duty end links and make sure they are torqued properly.
- Inspect the tie rod ends. There should be no up and down play, but only rotational movement.
- Inspect the control arm bolts, holes and bushings for similar conditions with the tie rods and rod ends. The bolts can wear or become out of round with heavy use and off-road driving. Replace these if necessary.
- Inspect the sector shaft from the steering box for any rotational warpage or other signs of breakage. Replace this if needed.
- Replace the steering stabilizer with a heavy duty one for preventative measure.
Figure 6. Make sure to inspect all components of your suspension to solve your death wobble problem.
Featured Video: Common Source of Death Wobble on Jeep Wrangler JK
Suspension Problems of Jeep Grand Cherokee
The Suspension problem
Shifter service, power steering yes available for inspection. Power steering went out, lights on dash board flashed and beeped and then would go black. Jeep diagnosed my Jeep. No warning and happened about 2 weeks ago and has continued consistanly Read details...
The Front Suspension problem
2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee springs for the struts are weak and can snap going over a bumps in road causing damage to the struts and replacement of both parts. I currently had this happen and was told by my garage they sees this so much from Jeep the parts are on backorder since they can not keep up Read details...
The Rear Suspension problem
The contact owns a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. While driving various speeds, an abnormal noise emitted from the rear of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 36,638. Read details...
The Suspension Noise problem
When you go over a bump you have a loud hollow thump or bang coming from the rear suspension its not your normal noise from a bump their are 2 diffrent sounds 1 is normal the 2nd doesnt belong their. Something is loss or not sitting correctly you can even hear it louder if you sit in the back if Read details...
The Front Suspension Wheel Bearing problem
It's been since may 2018 with in/out visits to the dealership for a constant problem. My steering wheel wobbles over 70mph on my 2015 Grand Cherokee wk2 high altitude, all standard features. This started after 26k miles and now I have 39k miles. Read details...
Suspension problems jeep
Suspension Problems of Jeep Wrangler
The Suspension problem
Driving 72 mph on the interstate when I exited a bridge, there was a bump in the road. The front started to vibrate vigorously and the steering vibrated so hard that I almost had a wreck. Slowed down to 40 mph and the vibrating stopped. Read details...
The Front Suspension problem
The contact owns a 2013 Jeep Wrangler. While the vehicle was stationary, the front axle rusted out. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 70,000. Read details...
The Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar problem
While driving at 60 mph over s suspension joint on a bridge, the vehicle started shaking violently and was unable to control vehicle until the speed dropped to 35 mph. I have already had the recall done to the vehicle to replace the stabilizer bar, and the problem is still continuing to occur any Read details...
The Ball Joint problem
When vehicle hits a bump, it vibrates so driver is unable to control vehicle until it is brought to a complete stop. Investigation online points to "death wobble" as described by other Jeep owners. Happens on both city streets and highway. Read details...
The Front Suspension Control Arm problem
Purchased a 2002 Jeep from twin rivers auto sales, I did not receive a vehicle disclosure report and it was sold to me with a control arm bracket that was damaged was not attached to the frame which makes driving the vehicle impossible it is not attached to frame which could have cause Read details...
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