383 stroker forged pistons

383 stroker forged pistons DEFAULT

Forged PISTONS for / Stroker

Series CIDStrokeRod LengthPin HeightPin SizeRing SizesPiston TopCompression RatioAlloy PistonsPiston and Ring KitsE" ""5///16" -4cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKE" ""5///16" -8cc Flat Top 4 Valve relief 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKE" ""5///16" -4cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKE"""5///16" -4cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKE"""5///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKE"""5///16" -4cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKE" ""5///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX"""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX"""1///16" -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX" ""1///16" +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX"""1///16" -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX"""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccKSX"""1///16" cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX"""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX"""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX"""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX"""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX"""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX"""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX"""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX"""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX"""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM -5cc Flat Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM cc Dish Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK1-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK2-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK3-FX" ""//3MM +4cc Dome Top 58cc, 64cc, 70ccK
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" Rod Stroker Engine Wiseco Flattop Forged " Rod Stroker Engine Wiseco Flattop " Forged Race Pistons
Click On Image To Enlarge

" Rod Stroker Engine Wiseco Flattop " Forged Race Pistons set of 8

Additional Piston information:

  • Forged Wiseco pistons w/ spirolox
  • Flattop 2 valve reliefs
  • " compression height (" taller than most pistons)
  • Compression ratio to 1 with block decked for near Zero Deck (64cc)
  • Forged Aluminum Alloy
  • 5/64" 5/64" 3/16"  Ring Set Required

Order Hastings Premium Moly Rings for this set.

2M - Hastings Manufacturing 2M Chrome Moly Rings



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  1. Absolute value translations
  2. Imperial animal hospital hours
  3. Swing set platform

SBC Stroker Kit

CNC-Motorsports offers the best stroker kits. We offer everything from mild cast kits with hypereutectic pistons to wild fully forged lightweight rotating assembly kits to meet your racing needs. We offer quality name brands such as; Eagle, Scat, Callies, Lunati, Crower, JE/SRP, Diamond, Mahle, CP, Keith Black, and Manley to name a few. CNC-Motorsports can customize any stroker kit you can imagine. All balanced rotating assembly kits are completed in house by CNC-Motorsports. If you don’t see the kit you're wanting feel free to call or email our experienced staff today.

  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Kit, Keith Black Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Mahle Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Mahle Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Dome Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Mahle Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Forged Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Forged Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Dish Pistons

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SBC Stroker Kit

CNC-Motorsports offers the best stroker kits. We offer everything from mild cast kits with hypereutectic pistons to wild fully forged lightweight rotating assembly kits to meet your racing needs. We offer quality name brands such as; Eagle, Scat, Callies, Lunati, Crower, JE/SRP, Diamond, Mahle, CP, Keith Black, and Manley to name a few. CNC-Motorsports can customize any stroker kit you can imagine. All balanced rotating assembly kits are completed in house by CNC-Motorsports. If you don’t see the kit you're wanting feel free to call or email our experienced staff today.

  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Kit, Keith Black Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Mahle Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Mahle Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Dome Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Mahle Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Keith Black Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Dish Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Forged Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Flat Top Pistons
  •  Scat SB Chevy Stroker Forged Rotating Assembly Kit, Icon Dish Pistons

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Pistons forged 383 stroker

The Ultimate Guide to the Chevy Stroker

| How-To - Engine and Drivetrain

Car Craft has scoured the earth to assemble all the details around building a stroker Chevy.

If the small-block Chevy is the most predominant powerplant in the musclecar world, the could very well be the most popular displacement. In a world where cubic inches are king, it doesn't make much sense to build a ci small-block when you can build a for virtually the same price. In the old days, car crafters pillaged unsuspecting ci engines for their cranks and connecting rods. Today, the aftermarket is bulging with ridiculously affordable cast cranks. When you can buy a brand-new, fully machined, and ready-to-install cast inch stroker crank for $, there's no reason to build a plain vanilla This giant section is devoted exclusively to the design, creation, building, and testing of the ci stroker small-block Chevy.

The Origin Of The SpeciesFirst of all, Chevy never built a production Secondly, the did not just fall out of the sky one bright, clear summer afternoon. Sometime roughly odd years ago, a creative small-block engine builder realized that if he machined the main journals of a ci small-block crank to fit in a block, the longer arm would add roughly 28 ci to a overbored small-block Chevy. This happens because the small-block uses a inch stroke compared with the 's inch stroke. Add in a inch overbore and the displacement formula spits out ci, which car crafters have conveniently rounded off to

While the standard is the most common form of stroker small-block, there are several variations to this theme. The first question might be: Why not just build a ci small-block and take advantage of the additional cubic inches? In the early days of the , many enthusiasts were under the mistaken impression that the small-block was prone to overheating, so using a block was considered a better way to go. Today, finding a ci standard-bore production block is becoming increasingly difficult, which is why the has remained popular. The following is a selection of the variations on the stroker small-block concept.

DISPLACEMENTBORESTROKENOTES
block (+), crank
block standard bore, crank
block (+), crank
block (+), crank
block (+), custom crank
block (+), custom crank

Stroke Stuffing All production small-block Chevys share the same deck height of inches. Stroke, connecting-rod length, and block deck height are the variables the engine designer must play with when creating a new engine. In the case of the stroker small-block Chevy, it comes down to squeezing a bigger arm into a standard small-block. The original ci small-block used a inch bore and a inch stroke. When the time came to design the , Chevy engineers had to stuff a inch stroke into the 's same block architecture. Bumping the stroke required changing a few other details as well. Instead of moving the piston's wristpin location upward, they shortened the connecting rod. All stock small-block Chevy connecting rods measure inches, except for the , which measures inches. The difference is inch, which just happens to be exactly half of the added stroke at inch. Let's add up the numbers to see how this works. The formula is simple: Half the stroke, plus rod length, plus piston compression height needs to fit within the block deck height. To define everything, the deck height is the distance from the crank centerline to the head surface of the block. Compression height is the measurement from the wristpin centerline to the flat portion of the piston. The numbers lay out as follows:

Reciprocating component height: 1/2 stroke + rod length + piston compression heightci component height: (/2) + + = inchesci component height: (/2) + + = inchesThe small-block Chevy standard deck height is inches.Production small-block Chevys are built with the piston roughly inch below the deck.

Based on this information, the earliest s were built using stock inch-long connecting rods because this combination allowed using a compression height piston. However, this creates a severe rod-length-to-stroke relationship (rod length divided by stroke), producing a ratio of on a , while the uses both a shorter stroke and a longer rod to produce a ratio of This may not sound like a big deal, but it was clear from these early engines that the short rod pushed the piston into the cylinder wall pretty hard and was not happy at engine speeds more than 6, rpm.

This led to the better idea of combining the longer inch rod with the inch stroke crank, which made the rod angularity much gentler on the cylinder wall. Of course, this requires a custom piston with a shorter compression height. For example, a typical piston intended for a inch-long connecting rod will have a compression height of inches to create that same deck height. This allows up to inch of room to mill the deck to create a zero deck height between the top of the piston and the deck of the block. As the length of the connecting rod increases, the piston's compression height shortens and the wristpin moves closer to the ring package. At some point, adding a longer rod will push the wristpin too far into the ring package, which reduces piston stability at higher engine speeds. While there are many custom pistons with the wristpin in the ring pack, there are limitations to the minimum piston compression height. Many engine builders will limit minimum compression height to inch. For example, a small-block Chevy with a inch stroke and a inch rod will require a very short inch compression height to squeeze it all into a standard-deck-height small-block. SRP makes a very short piston for this specific application, although the pin most definitely intrudes into the oil ring land.

Internal Vs. External BalanceHere's where it gets fun. When Chevy engineers pulled out their slide rules and put their pencils to the drawing board in the late '60s to design the ci small-block, it meant adding counterweight to the crankshaft to properly offset the longer stroke. There wasn't room in the crankcase to move the crank counterweights away from the crank centerline because the weights would hit the block. Instead, the designers added weight at the flywheel/flexplate and harmonic balancer ends of the crankshaft, creating an externally balanced engine. The is the only Gen I small-block that requires offset balance weights on both ends of the crank. This means that most standard rotator packages use an externally balanced crank that requires a style offset weight balancer and flywheel/flexplate.

While externally balanced engines have survived for decades, heavy external weights are more likely to put a twist in the crank at higher engine speeds. To minimize this, many cranks are also offered internally balanced. This requires Mallory, or heavy metal, to be added to the crank throws to offset the amount of weight normally added to the balancer and flywheel/flexplate. This is a more expensive process, but internal balance does offer durability advantages. Several crank manufacturers offer an internal balance option for stroker packages either as separate cranks or complete rotator packages.

One-piece rear main seal stroker cranks also demand attention to a critical balance issue. A two-piece rear main seal crank has a small offset weight incorporated into the flywheel/flexplate flange that does not exist on one-piece rear main seal cranks. As a result, most one-piece rear main seal crankshafts require offset weight on the flywheel/flexplate. But since one-piece cranks have a unique flange bolt pattern, all one-piece flywheels/flexplates come with the required offset weight.

This is fine until you realize that several crank companies also offer internally balanced, one-piece rear main seal stroker cranks. Balancing them requires eliminating the offset weight from the flywheel/flexplate. For flexplates, this means removing the weight that is usually welded in place. For flywheels, weight is not added but instead removed from the opposite side of the flywheel. Zero-balancing a one-piece flywheel means drilling holes degrees from the original holes to zero-balance the flywheel and prevent vibration.

Two-Piece Vs. One-Piece Seals From to , all small-block Chevys were built with two-piece rear main seals. Unfortunately, this seal design is prone to leaking, so in , GM redesigned the small-block with a one-piece rear main seal. This changed the rear crankshaft flange design to accommodate the one-piece seal. At first, no crankshaft companies were building one-piece performance stroker crankshafts, which required an adapter. However, all the major crank companies now offer crankshafts in two-piece and one-piece rear main seal versions.

While the older two-piece crankshaft can be adapted for use in a newer one-piece block, the one-piece crank cannot be retrofitted to the two-piece block. That's just as well because there are some real advantages to using the one-piece rear main seal blocks to build a We'll run through a quick version of a buildup of one of these engines, but the one-piece seal combined with the advantages of using a hydraulic roller cam in these same blocks is well worth the effort. It's important to know the one-piece crank also uses a smaller flywheel bolt pattern compared with the early two-piece design, so flywheels and flexplates do not interchange between these two flange designs.

Internal ClearancingStuffing a inch stroke crank into a block designed for a 1/4-inch-shorter arm requires minor trimming. The first area for attention is where the rods swing by the base of the block just inboard of the oil-pan rail. If you are building a for the first time, mock up the crank and rods with dummy pistons so the rods swing in their proper orientation. The rod bolt nuts (or bolt heads for capscrew rods) will probably either hit the block or come extremely close, requiring clearancing with a die grinder and a carbide cutter designed for cast iron. The key is to remove as little iron as possible because there is a water jacket directly beneath the area you will be grinding. Most blocks will require clearancing at the base of each cylinder, and many will also need a slight amount of grinding just on the inside edge of the pan rail. The extent of the grinding will depend on the rod design and position of the rod bolts. The pan rail may not always need to be clearanced.

There's a second and equally important internal clearance issue on s between the camshaft and the connecting rods. Because of the additional stroke, the upper portion of the big end of the connecting rod swings very close to the camshaft. Using stock inch rods in a requires grinding the leading edge of the rod near the bolt on rods 1, 2, 5, and 6. One way to help with this clearance to use a new rod bolt from ARP (PN , $, summitracing.com), which offers additional bolt head clearance for the camshaft. Small-base-circle cams are another suggestion when building a stroker motor. The base circle is the starting point for any lobe lift. Since maximum lobe height on any cam cannot be larger than the diameter of the cam journals, one way to gain lift with a cam is with a smaller base circle. Big-lift roller cams often present the biggest clearance problems with a , so this is something that should certainly be checked when trial-fitting your next Cam phasing is also critical to this effort, so when test-assembling the engine, the cam should be accurately degreed to ensure proper clearance between the cam lobes and the rods. Our friends at Jim Grubbs Motorsports (JGM) recommend a minimum clearance of inch that can be measured using a long feeler gauge. Using clay doesn't really work because it tends to smear rather than cut cleanly.

The staff at JGM also told us they prefer I-beam over the H-beam rods for all small-block Chevy stroker applications because the H-beams often require radical block clearancing. In fact, JGM's Jeff Latimes says that they've had to clearance a block using H-beam rods with a standard inch stroke crank. In that same area, internally balanced cranks place the additional mass on the rear counterweight, which often creates clearance issues right at the oil-pan rail. This sometimes requires reshaping the inside edge of the oil pan to clear the counterweight. The procedure is to mount the pan on the pan rail with the crank in place and rotate the crank for clearance without the gasket. If the pan clears, it will have the same or more clearance with the gasket. JGM also prefers the Fel-Pro one-piece molded pan gasket not only for ease of installation, but also for its additional clearance.

Compression LessonsOne way to squeeze every last ounce of power out of your engine is by carefully selecting the parts and blueprinting the engine. Compression ratio is a great place to enhance power while still using pump gas. The variables that come into play include piston top configuration (flat, dished, or domed), piston deck height, head gasket thickness, and combustion chamber volume. Two other variables are bore and stroke. Let's assume we're building a typical inch-bore, inch-stroke We'll run through several classic combinations to generate a pump-gas-friendly compression ratio. We won't get into camshaft selection here, but basically with a longer-duration cam with more overlap, you can afford to pump the compression slightly to offset the loss of cylinder pressure at lower engine speeds.

An important point worth mentioning is to keep the piston-to-head clearance as tight as possible. If you can get that clearance to anywhere near inch, that's great, especially because most head gaskets come in around inch thick. This tight clearance increases mixture activity in the chamber, which improves power and efficiency. We're not going to go through the clumsy math of computing compression. Instead, we'll refer you to the Performance Trends Web site, where you can download a free compression ratio program that is far quicker than doing the math longhand. To keep things simple, we'll limit the combos in these examples to a inch bore and a inch stroke.

Combo A: Let's do a typical flat-top piston with four valve reliefs (roughly 6 cc for volume) along with a inch-thick head gasket and a 76cc chamber, which is typical for a stock iron production head. For piston deck height, let's use inch. As the chart shows, the safest package with a mild hydraulic cam is going to be the version, while the version would probably make the best power on pump gas but would be sensitive to things like hot intake air temperatures, since hot air can easily make the engine prone to detonation.

Combo B: Let's look at an 18cc dished piston with many of the same variables as above, such as a inch deck height, a inch-thick gasket, and a smaller combustion chamber. By including other variables, such as a smaller dish or a larger chamber, you can see how the numbers change.

Combo C: Now let's try something different. Let's keep the piston inch below the deck and use a inch-thick Fel-Pro embossed steel head gasket with a rubber coating (PN , $, summitracing.com). This gasket can be used on aluminum heads. Our goal here is to reduce the piston-to-head clearance to inch. Note how this affects compression. This requires that we minimize piston rock with a long rod and tight piston-to-wall clearance. This option does not require decking the block, and the gasket is also less expensive.

Clearly, there are dozens more combinations that we just don't have space to detail here, such as what happens to compression when changing bore and/or stroke. As an example, adding stroke bumps compression because the piston is moving farther down in the bore, creating more volume to compress. The beauty of the Performance Trends program is that you can play around with different variables very quickly to come up with an optimized combination.

ENGINE PACKAGECOMPRESSION RATIO
Combo A:
Flat-top piston, 76cc chamber, gasket, deck
Same as above with 70cc combustion chamber
Same as above with 64cc combustion chamber
Combo B:
Dished (18cc) piston, 64cc chamber, gasket, deck
Dished (12cc) piston, 64cc chamber, gasket, deck
Dished (12cc) piston, 70cc chamber, gasket, deck
Combo C:
Dished (12cc) piston, 70cc chamber, gasket, deck
Dished (12cc) piston, 64cc chamber, gasket, deck
Flat-top (6cc) piston, 70cc chamber, gasket, deck
Flat-top (6cc) piston, 64cc chamber, gasket, deck

Rod LengthThere's much more to stuffing a longer-stroke crank into a small-block Chevy than just making sure the crank will clear the block. In the Origin of the Species sidebar, we outlined how the total height of the rotating assembly should compute to be roughly the same height as the engine's deck height. While a short rod like the stock 's inch piece will work, the angularity is rather harsh. A shorter rod pushes the piston into the thrust surface side of the cylinder wall, causing unnecessary friction and wear. Plus, short rods tend to expose more of the piston skirt out of the bottom of the bore at bottom dead center. This can cause durability and piston noise issues. Most small-block stroker packages prefer the stock inch-long style rod, but there are also advantages to going with a inch rod. A longer rod further reduces rod angularity during the combustion cycle, which reduces the side load on the piston and cylinder wall. But despite all the theories about long versus short rods, there is no solid evidence to suggest that there is significant power to be gained by using a longer rod.

All is not rosy with a long rod combination, however. Longer rods move the wristpin closer to the ring package. In tight situations, the wristpin overlaps the oil ring, requiring a support rail. This reduced compression height also creates less piston stability at higher engine speeds because of a shorter piston skirt length. The following chart outlines the three popular rod lengths and piston compression heights based on a inch stroke. All these rod-length and compression-height combos will produce an overall assembled height of inches, which allows roughly inch piston-to-deck clearance with a stock deck height of inches.

In this example, the inch rod requires a compression height of inches (SRP's inch rod pistons use inches). The height is close to the bare minimum of that most piston manufacturers recommend, which is why the inch rod is so popular. Longer rods are also heavier and can affect the overall bob weight of the rotating assembly. When mixing and matching parts, you'll want to avoid spending extra money to balance the system. This means that if you buy the crank individually, make sure the overall bob weight of the rods and pistons match the crank's designed bob weight. If you screw up here, it will cost big bucks to balance the crank.

We've listed several rods from several manufacturers that would work for a This is only a partial list of the rods available from all the manufacturers. As an example, Scat alone offers five grades of connecting rods. Some are designed as stroker rods, while others are stock replacement rods that will need help to clear the camshaft. There's also the question of I- versus H-beam rods. All prices in the following chart are for a package of eight rods.

ROD LENGTHPISTON COMPRESSION HEIGHT
5.

I Beam Vs. H beamWhen you are selecting a rod for your next stroker, piston speed is the issue. With a inch stroke the piston is traveling inches from the top to the bottom of the bore. At 6, rpm, the piston is traveling 45, inches or 3, feet per minute.

When the piston is at bottom dead center (BDC), the rod is experiencing compression, and when the piston is at TDC, it is experiencing tension. The most violent force for the rod to endure is from the tension created at TDC during overlap where the piston is not cushioned by compressed air. A piston assembly (piston, rings, pin, and pin clip) that weighs grams, for example, will weigh 11, pounds at 6, rpm during overlap. The rod must hold on to the piston as it reverses direction without stretching, snapping, or distorting causing bearing failure. Heavier pistons make it worse.

Using Scat as an example, the company's Street I-beam rod will withstand a 6,rpm pounding with a piston assembly in the gram range. The Pro Comp I-beam will survive a gram piston at 7, rpm or a heavier piston at a lower speed. The next step up would be the H-beam that can take whatever you can afford to throw at it. Chances are though, if you are building an engine that requires an H-beam rod, the pistons will be lighter, allowing more rpm and more rod longevity.

DESCRIPTIONPNSOURCEPRICE
Scat stock I-beam, 3/8 PSummit Racing$
Scat stock I-beam, 3/8PSummit Racing
Scat H-beam, 7/16 Summit Racing
Scat H-beam, 7/16Summit Racing
Eagle I-beam, 3/8SIRBPLWSummit Racing
Eagle I-beam, 3/8SIRBPLWSummit Racing
Eagle H-beam, 7/16CRSB3DSummit Racing
Eagle H-beam, 7/16CRSB3DSummit Racing
Crower Sportsman, 3/8SPB-8Summit Racing
Crower Sportsman, 3/8SPB-8Summit Racing

Rotator PackagesFor those car crafters who prefer to build their own engine, the quickest path to making power is with a complete rotator package. The most common rotator packages include the crank, rods, pistons, and the rings and bearings. Often, you can also purchase these systems balanced and ready to install. The most important reason to buy a rotator system is because the manufacturer combines the right parts that can be easily balanced. The danger of piecing together a crank, rod, and piston combination is that you must pay strict attention to bob weights. If you end up with a heavy piston, balancing can become extremely expensive since Mallory (heavy) metal has skyrocketed in price lately. The smart move is to carefully lay out your plans for that engine and do your homework before buying anything. Check the prices and go with a system that is designed to work together, and you will avoid many of the classic engine builder blunders.

The great thing about the small-block Chevy is that the volume of parts being produced is so great that manufacturers can offer excellent deals on brand-new parts that make it silly to dig up used parts to build a For the budget-conscious builder, the hot ticket is to go with a cast nodular iron crank, stock-style rods, and cast or hypereutectic pistons. Scat offers its Series rotating assembly, which uses a cast crank, cast pistons, and I-beam rods for less than $ That's an amazing price for new parts. The Scat rods are replacement-style I-beams made from steel and fitted with ARP bolts. It's only slightly less expensive to rebuild stock rods compared with what these babies cost, and the stock rods are not nearly as strong. There are several other companies, such as Competition Products, that offer similar kits-so do a little shopping to see what's out there.

For those who are looking to work their a little harder, you might want to step up the quality a little. Eagle offers a cast crank kit for a two-piece rear main seal that is externally balanced and uses Eagle I-beam steel rods, hypereutectic pistons, rings, and bearings. This kit also comes with a Pioneer balancer and flexplate. If engine speed above 6, rpm is what you dream about at night, then stepping up to a steel crank and good forged pistons is the only way to go. Crower has created the Enduro kit that lists an American-made steel crankshaft with Sportsman steel I-beam rods, along with your choice of forged piston. The kit rounds out with rings and bearings, and while the price is steeper, you're getting a package that could live a long time spinning to a 6,rpm shift point

The advantage of working with an extremely popular engine package is that you have lots of choices. We've already made our decision. Now all we have to do is save our lunch money for the next two years and that Crower package is all ours!

DESCRIPTIONPNSOURCEPRICE
Scat Series rotatorSummit Racing$
Eagle rotator kitBESummit Racing
Crower Enduro series kitSummit Racing 2,

Mild To Wild Engine CombosThe following is a quick overview of three different engine combinations, all displacing ci with a inch-long rod and degree small-block heads. But that's where the similarities end. If you take a look at the three power curves, you'll notice that as the camshaft duration becomes longer, the torque peak moves higher in the rpm scale. The mild engine's peak torque occurs at 3, rpm, while the middle engine bumps that up to 5, rpm. The wild engine actually lowers the peak torque a little with its better cylinder heads, but you can see how the cam duration slides both the peak torque and peak horsepower up the rpm scale. Also note how the hp engine is down 50 lb-ft at 2, compared with the mild engine.

MildHP This is a simple and relatively inexpensive combination of a one-piece roller cam block with a stroker crank, compression with dished pistons, a tame GM Performance Parts hot hydraulic roller cam, roller rockers, factory roller lifters, a set of modified Vortec iron heads, an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap intake, a cfm mechanical-secondary carburetor, and a set of 13/4-inch headers. The only upgrade necessary is some machine work and better valvesprings for the Vortec heads to accommodate the additional valve lift. This combo makes excellent torque with lb-ft at 3, and at 5, rpm. Even with a stock converter, this is a tire shredder.

DESCRIPTIONPNSOURCEPRICE
Block, one-piece sealusedjunkyard$
Scat crank, cast, one-piece sealSummit Racing
Stock inch rodrebuiltMachine shop
Piston, Speed-Pro hypereutecticHCSummit Racing each
GMPP Vortec iron headScoggin-Dickey
GMPP Hot hydraulic roller camScoggin-Dickey
GMPP valvespring kitScoggin-Dickey
Edelbrock RPM Air-GapSummit Racing
Holley mechanical secondaryCSummit Racing
Hedman 13/4-inch headersapplication specificSummit Racing

MediumHP This combination steps up the compression, the heads, and the cam over the mild combo and is rewarded with 70 more horsepower and is still peaking below 6, rpm. Overall torque is greater across the board because of the better-flowing TFS cc aluminum cylinder heads outfitted with /inch stainless valves. This is great overall power because the motor makes more than lb-ft from 3, to 5, In a 3,pound Camaro with an automatic and a 3,stall-speed converter, this could run very low 12s, assuming sufficient traction to stick all that torque to the pavement.

DESCRIPTION PNSOURCEPRICE
Block, production, 1 piece seal usedjunkyard$
Scat crankshaft, cast, 1 piece Summit Racing
Scat Comp I-beam rod Summit Racing
SRP forged piston Summit Racing
TFS cc aluminum head TFSSummit Racing 1,
Comp XRHR cam Summit Racing
Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Summit Racing
Demon cfm mechanical secondaryJegs
Hedman 13/4-inch headers application specificSummit Racing

WildHP Here's where the fun really begins. This engine started life as a pedestrian one-piece rear main seal motor that now has a complete Lunati steel crank rotating package complete with I-beam Lunati Pro Mod rods and forged flat-top Wiseco pistons. We dropped on a set of Dart CNC cc heads that helped produce a compression ratio. Then we added in an aggressive Comp Cams XR mechanical roller cam with (count 'em!) 36 more degrees of duration at than the mild combination. Topping off this thumper is a Holley-Dorton single-plane intake and a Holley Street HP carb. Routing the exhaust was the responsibility of a set of Hooker 13/4-inch headers. The final piece was a Wilson 1-inch tapered spacer that on this particular combination was worth a solid 23 hp from to hp. Peak torque occurred at 5, rpm. This is a beast in small-block clothing, but with a distinctive idle lope, there's little chance of disguising this small-block as anything less than a contender. If horsepower makes your toes tingle, this is the combo for you. We've actually discussed pushing this beast a little harder to see if we could hit hp. If you like that idea, compose a sell job and convince us this needs to be done. We love it when you talk horsepower.

DESCRIPTIONPNSOURCEPRICE
Block, production, 1 piece sealusedjunkyard$
Lunati stroker assemblyEA62Summit Racing3,
Comp XR rollerSummit Racing
Comp mechanical roller liftersSummit Racing
Dart CNC cc headSummit Racing2, 90
Holley Dorton intake Summit Racing
Holley Street HP cfmSummit Racing
Hooker 13/4-inch headers application specificSummit Racing
MILDMEDIUM WILD
RPMTQ HP TQ HP TQ HP
2,
3,
3,
4,
4,
5,
5,
6, - -
6, - - - -
6, - - - -
Cam Specs
DURATION(at )LIFT(in. )LOBE SEPARATION
Mild: GMPP Hot, intake
PN , exhaust
Medium: Comp XRHR, intake
PN , exhaust
Wild: Comp XR, intake
PN , exhaust
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Sours: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ccrpstroker-small-block-chevy/

KB PISTONS new ICON FORGED FLAT TOP suit SMALL BLOCK CHEV STROKER. Size is " plus 30 thou over bore set of 8 # KBIC " stroke crank in Chev V8 and 6" con rod length, 4" bore plus thou oversize, Requires 1/16" x 1/16" x 3/16" piston rings - NOT INCLUDED WITH PISTONS We are proud to introduce our new ICON line of FORGED pistons. Icon brings the same quality and performance you've come to expect from other United Engine brands (KB Hypereutectic) while adding a new lightweight forged design. No matter your high performance application, there is an ICON piston for you. Before ordering pistons, please check your block bore size to make sure you get the correct oversize pistons.

DO NOT ORDER unless your engine builder has checked your block size.

  • High ductility alloy
  • Dual forced pin oiling on most applications
  • Lateral gas porting on higher compression ratios
  • 1/16 x 1/16 x 3/16 ring packs standard
  • Fully machined with deep valve pockets
  • Second land accumulator grooves
  • Top land mini groove technology
  • Diamond finished skirts
  • Triple wound spiral locks
  • Spacer rings included in short compression heights that intersect the wrist pin bore
  • Over different part number oversizes
Sours: https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/kbic

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