C3 corvette windshield replacement

C3 corvette windshield replacement DEFAULT

I purchased a fathom green ‘69 big-block tri-power T-top coupe with only 42,000 original miles on it recently. I’m the third owner of the car, and I got it for a very good price because it needs some heavy doses of TLC. The car had been exposed to the weather during its 31 years of existence and, as is a common malady of Sharks, the upper windshield frame had rusted through,
badly resulting in lots of water damage to the interior. Additionally, the windshield had a large crack in it.

Corvette Central offers a new upper windshield frame and upper left and right corners – just the items I needed to do this repair. Since I don’t own a MIG welder, I decided to let a local body shop weld the new components; however, to save time (and money) I removed the old windshield, moldings and trim pieces and I supplied the parts and materials for the body shop. Such “sweat equity” is a good way to keep the costs down. Here’s what it entailed.

corners
Here are the left and right upper frame corners and the upper frame itself. The original frame was so badly rusted that repair was not possible; replacing these components was the only solution.

rust control
Rust control and prevention was a top priority on this project, so a POR-15 Super Starter Kit, POR-15 Epoxy Putty and an extra quart of POR-15 rust preventative paint was ordered. As it turned out, the extra quart wasn’t necessary since the starter kit provided plenty for the job. The putty would be used to fill in any rust holes and to build up rusted areas on the lower frame arms if necessary.

tightwire
A roll of windshield removal wire was also ordered. The wire is used to cut through the factory butyl tape that holds the windshield in the frame.

visors
After removal of the T-tops, the sun visors are the first interior components to be removed.

trim
The windshield header trim is the next component removed.

mirror
The rear-view mirror and its mounting plate are removed next.

impact
Some of the screws had “rust welded” themselves to the frame and an impact driver was used to break them free where possible.

center trim
With the mirror and its mounting plate out of the way, the T-top center trim panel can be removed by gently tugging on it. Work it on each side gently, rather than pulling hard on it, as this panel is easy to crack and expensive to replace.

post trim
The screws retaining the windshield post side trim are removed and the trim pieces follow. Velcro-type retainers are also used to hold these trim pieces on, so you may find that sliding a long screwdriver down between the post and the trim makes it easier to pry them free.

pillar post
Gently peel back the pillar post weatherstrip from the weatherstrip retainer if it is in good condition. Mine was dry-rotted, as was all of the weather-stripping on this car, so I just ripped it off since it was going to be replaced with new rubber anyway.

retainer
With the weatherstrip removed, the four screws that attach the weatherstrip retainer are removed next.

weatherstrip retainer
The weatherstrip retainer can then be removed. If it doesn’t come free by itself, pry gently using a screwdriver, being careful not to dent it.

pillar post
The stainless steel pillar post windshield trim can be removed next. Use a thin-blade screwdriver to gently work this trim piece free, since it is being held in with butyl tape and caulking. Repeat steps 10-13 for the passenger side as well.

dremel
The screws retaining the stainless steel upper windshield/T-top interior trim (also called “T” trim) are removed next. Again, “rust welding” was a problem here, and the impact driver was used to no avail. A Dremel or other high¬speed handheld grinder comes in handy for cutting the heads off these stubborn screws.

t trim
Prior to removing the “T” trim, use a screwdriver to pry the upper exterior stainless windshield trim, since the “T” trim sits underneath this trim piece.

rivets
Gently pry the “T” trim up, moving only 2-3 inches at a time across from both sides. This trim is secured at the rear with two pop rivets that can be drilled out.

pry gently
When the interior side of the “T” trim is loose, move to the outside of the car and start prying gently from above the windshield. Care should be taken here as well not to dent the stainless steel trim panel.

pot metal
The left and right front T-top lock brackets at the corners of the windshield are the last trim pieces to be removed. Work carefully and gently with these – they are made of pot metal and snap easily. They will probably have a lot of dried caulking underneath them, which will hold them fast. Work slowly and methodically – eventually they will release and can be removed.

rusted frame
Here’s an overhead view of the badly rusted upper frame with all the trim removed. Windshield removal is next on the agenda.

cowl
If you have an older Shark (X68-X72) with the retractable wiper cowl, now is the time to remove it. If your car is a ’73 or later, you don’t have the cowl. Now is also the time to remove the windshield wiper arms. With these items removed, find a spot along the windshield where there’s an opening between it and the frame and insert the windshieldremoval wire at that point. If necessary, use an ice pick or thin screwdriver to create an opening to pass the wire through. Apply pressure to the wire while using a sawing motion to cut through the butyl tape holding the windshield in place. Keep feeding new wire with each stroke for the sharpest cutting edge since the butyl tape dulls the wire as it passes through it. Take extra care when doing the lower edge of the windshield to prevent doing any damage to the upper dash pad.

flatbedding
Here’s a shot of the car with the windshield removed, prior to flatbedding it off to the body shop.

scraper
A scraper is used to remove the loose rust in an effort to locate the spot welds on the corners and upper windshield frame.

spot welds
All spot welds connecting the corners to the pillars are drilled through.

air chisel
An air chisel is then used to separate the corners from the pillars.

separate brace
The spot welds of the “T” bar are also drilled out and air chiselled to separate the brace from the upper frame. This shot shows it already separated.

ready to install
In this shot the upper frame and upper corners are already removed and we are ready to install the new components.

ragtop
The replacement upper windshield frame is designed for a convertible and can be used on a ragtop without any modification. However, if you’re installing it on a coupe, you’ll have to notch out a section to receive the “T” bar. The notch can be seen in this shot.

mated perfectly
The corners and frame are trial fitted using sheet metal screws to keep everything secured temporarily. The corners and frame fit like a glove and mated perfectly with the pillars and “T” bar.

mig welder
A MIG welder is used to permanently fasten the corners to the pillars and upper frame and to weld the joint of the “T” bar to the upper frame. Clamps keep everything aligned during welding, since the sheet metal screws were removed and their holes filled in with welding bead.

completed corner
Here’s a look at a completed corner. The light colored area below the corner is where the POR-15 epoxy putty was applied to fill in some rust and sanded flush with the rest of the pillar.

completed welds
A view of the completed welds of the “T” bar mating with the upper frame. All welds were ground down to give the joints a smooth, even surface.

rust preventative
The entire windshield frame was given a coat of POR-15 rust-preventive paint as added insurance so that we won’t have to do this job again in a few years!

polyurethane
While butyl tape was the OEM windshield adhesive in the old days and purists would probably still use it for this installation, I opted for the benefits of current automotive technology elected to go with polyurethane windshield adhesive instead.

413108_Page_7_Image_0001
The windshield frame is cleaned with a solvent and allowed to dry completely. A ^5-inch bead of polyurethane is then applied along the pinch weld of entire windshield frame, ensuring that there are no gaps anywhere.

primer
The windshield is cleaned with an ammonia-free cleaner, dried, and then a coat of glass conditioner is applied. When the conditioner dries completely, a coat of polyurethane primer is applied and allowed to dry as well.

firewall
The bottom of the windshield is positioned on the windshield stops mounted on the firewall and aligned so that the glass is centered side-to-side.

hand pressure
When all is well with the alignment, the windshield is pressed in place against the polyurethane bead and hand pressure is applied around the entire perimeter of the windshield to create a solid bond without any light spots or gaps.

clips tapped
Clips are tapped in place over the holes in the upper frame to accommodate the trim screws. The car is now ready to have its exterior and interior trim components put back on.

Reassembly is basically the reverse order of disassembly, using new components (such as replacing rusted screws and weatherstripping) where necessary.

General Motors used caulking compound back in the old days to fill in the voids in the upper frame and “T” bar, presumably to prevent spaces where water could accumulate and promote rusting. Obviously, this didn’t work too well. I used polyurethane windshield adhesive instead of caulking, although silicone caulking compound would probably work just as well. The whole idea is to fill up these voids. Even though the car itself is fiberglass, the windshield frame is steel and rust never sleeps!

CORVETTE CENTRAL PARTS
#413108 : 68-82 Corvette Windshield Frame Kit
#413101 : 68-82 Windshield Top Frame
#413102 : 68-82 Windshield Frame Upper Corner
#412027 : Windshield/Rear Glass Cutout Wire
#183011 : POR-15 Epoxy Putty
#412001 : 68-82 Windshield Butyl Tape (optional)
#101566 : POR-15 Starter Kit
#633125 : 69 Coupe Deluxe Weatherstrip Kit (optional)
Correct Date Coded Shaded Windshield

Story and photos courtesy Tom Benford

upper windshield frame

Sours: https://tech.corvettecentral.com/2008/03/c3-upper-windshield-frame-and-windshield-replacement/

 windshield frame rusting (1/22)
 1/19/06 9:46pm

rick d
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williamston, NC - USA

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1969 coupe, 350, m22 trans, ac, black on black,


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 windshield frame rusting (2/22)
 1/20/06 9:29am

I need some advice on this subject also.  Thanks in advance!

Mickey

 windshield frame rusting (3/22)
 1/20/06 8:22pm

xfire
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Saxonburg, PA - USA

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1982 Black over red, doing a resto.


Joined: 11/14/2003
Posts: 143

Mine wasn't too bad, I caught it in time. I needed a windshield, found more rust than I wanted.

I sand blasted the frame after the windshield was removed, then coated it with Permatex Rust Treatment. After it dried good I painted it with Rust-oleum.

You may have to replace some or all of your frame, that's where you can get into the big bucks.

Hope you guys are as lucky as I was, good luck.

Denny

 windshield frame rusting (4/22)
 1/22/06 9:46pm

You may be able to purchase the frame from one of the many Corvette parts places.  Recommend you measure down from the top corners and back from the center and then post exactly how much of the frame you need.  I did that for my 73 and found exactly what I needed.  Talk to [email protected] and he may be able to help you.  Good luck; this is not a fun task.

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 windshield frame rusting (5/22)
 2/7/06 9:32pm

blu72
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Pasadena, MD - USA

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Posts: 241

Hi all.....it's been a while.

Was at Carlise last summer and talked to a guy that had MANY windshield frames in his pile of parts. We talked about this repair, since mine is looking bad, maybe really bad.....before I commit to a paint job and such. I figure a complete frame, and a new windshield to make it right. You can find lots of pieces from wrecks to fix this problem, the new replacement parts seem really expensive, and my guess....they probably don't fit very well as usual. So, how much I ask.....

Yeah, I was ready, everything else has set me back way more than I thought, but, someday I will dive into this. I have no choice, I really want the car done right, and why stop now?

Ok, here it is....he quoted 2K for the job. He says it's all labor....I guessed that myself, frames were marked $400 and mostly the Canadian dudes were grabbing them up.....

Problem really might be finding somebody to do the job correctly, this looks like a bitch, and if not right you'll be cussing somebody as long as you own the car.....

So before I commit to this job, any comments out there???

Thanks, Bruce

 windshield frame rusting (6/22)
 2/8/06 8:34am

vettedreams79Lifetime Member
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I learned a couple years ago when I had to have the windshield replaced that this is a common problem area for C3's.  I'm surprised neither of you mentioned leaks when the car gets wet (don't tell me they're trailer queens?!), but I'm assuming you're like everyone else and drive in the rain as little as possible if at all.

Like Bruce says, the frame replacement is a PITA according to everyone I've talked to, but if the damage isn't major then you should be able to get away with the repair and prevention measures that xfire detailed.  If you're not missing a major portion of the frame already, then test the area(s) to see how extensive the damage is and R&R accordingly.  Hopefully it's just surface rust and you'll be able to fix it relatively easily...relatively speaking.

Good luck.

 windshield frame rusting (7/22)
 2/8/06 9:42am

apasbigal
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goldens bridge, NY - USA

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Posts: 498

See previous post under "body "  feb 22,2005 " Rust in Bird Cage - gives some suppliers and advice

hope it helps

Big Al



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 windshield frame rusting (8/22)
 2/8/06 12:08pm

[QUOTE=vettedreams79]

I'm surprised neither of you mentioned leaks when the car gets wet (don't tell me they're trailer queens?!)Good luck.

[/QUOTE]

Mine leaks like a sieve everywhere.  All the weather strip is shot.

Trailer Queen?  HA!  Not hardly.  I had it parked in front of my shop one day and a customer called and said he had been by but nobody was there.  I said: My Vette was parked next to the doors, I'm here.  He said:  OH!  I thought that was a junk car that somebody dumped off there.  (I'll bet he was embarrassed!) 

Nope, it will never be mistaken for a trailer queen.  LOL  Not even when I get finished with it.  I build my cars to drive them.  When I win trophies with my 1972 modified Monte Carlo at shows, it's just icing on the cake. 

Anyway, holding off until we find someplace inside to do the work on the Vette.  The Monte Carlo occupies the garage.  Might have to move her outside, but then she's not covered by insurance if something happens.  While at home, it's supposed to be kept in a locked garage. 

Then again, not trying real hard to find someplace indoors because I'm not sure we want to see what's going on with the windshield frame!  lol

Mickey

 

 windshield frame rusting (9/22)
 2/8/06 3:24pm

greypoupon69Lifetime Member
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Does anyone have some pics of the places that rot??

Thanks if ya do!

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 windshield frame rusting (10/22)
 2/8/06 9:13pm

blu72
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Pasadena, MD - USA

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Well my friends, maybe Ol' Blu is a garage queen, but I do drive it.....If I left 'er outside, I would be real sorry. During resto of everything else, the condition of the area around the windsheild looks rough, I'm not sure why it was so bad, the rest of the car was somewhat decent. It's had plenty of rain on it in prior years, so I guess it didn't have a prayer......

I'll check out Big Al's suggestions...

 

 

 windshield frame rusting (11/22)
 2/9/06 8:19am

vettedreams79Lifetime Member
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Well Mickey, I'd offer the use of one of my pole barns for your resto, but I'm pretty sure you don't want to make that commute!

As a matter of fact, I can offer inside work conditions for any members in my area, as long as I get to help and learn along the way.  Just IM me or send an email and we can work out any particulars.

Ken Styer...wish you lived closer!

 windshield frame rusting (12/22)
 2/9/06 9:23am

[QUOTE=vettedreams79]

Well Mickey, I'd offer the use of one of my pole barns for your resto, but I'm pretty sure you don't want to make that commute!

[/QUOTE]

Thank you for the offer.  Yes, just a wee bit far from home.

Mickey

 windshield frame rusting (13/22)
 2/9/06 9:13pm

[QUOTE=greypoupon69]Does anyone have some pics of the places that rot??

Thanks if ya do! [/QUOTE]

All the places rot, just some are worse then others. My own impression is the rocker channels are the most rust prone areas of the bird cage, and often the most overlooked. I can just about guarantee that if you have a rusty windshield frame, the channels are pretty much gone too. Also the underbody reinforcements around the #4 body mounts.

 windshield frame rusting (14/22)
 2/11/06 5:48pm

CFL34Lifetime Member
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1972 CORVETTE CLASSIC WHITE BLACK DELUXE LEATHER 1975 CORVETTE CONVERTIBLE W/ HARDTOP IN STEEL BLUE-SILVER LEATHER INTERIOR


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    well listen up all, i have a 72 that i thought was real clean with a small leak that would accumulate in the drivers side footwell. well in the process of restoring i took the body off,rocker channels looked good as far as i could tell just some surface rust. i went to take the windshield out and it was a pain in the ass there was this real thick sealant that took a torch to loosen up. finally after getting the windshield out i started scraping the windshield frame and  metal starts flaking away and i see gray which turns out to be duct tape at this point, huge gapeing areas of metal were gone. whoever did this repair balled up large amounts of duct tape to fill the gapeing holes in the windshield frame. i must have pulled out half a roll of duct tape out of the three or four holes in the frame, so after discovering this i decided to tear the whole car down and try to find a good birdcage to replace it. which, luckily, i did find one at carlisle had it sandblasted and powdercoated and now looks like new but, to make a long story short good rocker channels don't really indicate much because  this 72 was a very clean car otherwise hope this help some of you. just my .03 cents 

 windshield frame rusting (15/22)
 2/11/06 6:51pm

Another common practice, and there are two meanings of "common" here, is to fill the void with steel wool, bondo over the top of it and put the moulding back on.  Talk about a real mess that serves to hasten the rusting process when all of those little unpainted steel hairs get moist.  Imagine trying to clean up such a mess.  I have seen the above more than once.  I would not have kind words to a person I saw doing the above.

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 windshield frame rusting (16/22)
 2/11/06 7:42pm

2 cruznLifetime Member
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73 Conv, Blue-Green/White Top - 454, M21 - Dark Saddle Leather, Power Windows, A/C, Tilt/Tele, AM/FM St. (orig. and sounds like it too).#2 -- 2007 Coupe,3 LT package, Z51 option, Victory Red, Ebony Int. Clear Top.


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[QUOTE=greypoupon69]Does anyone have some pics of the places that rot??

Thanks if ya do! [/QUOTE]

Here is what you might see... Not pretty but can be fixed... A welder buddy of mine and I replaced the header new. Fortunateley the rest of the birdcage was Ok. if you remove the header molding and the steel frame of the molding is rusted out... you have a major problem. The biggest problem with this job was removing the windshield which did break. Mine had no sealant in the header, after an apparent windshield replacement. The header makes a nice collection point for water to sit and rust away... It was a labor intensive job, especially since the car had new paint I haven't been in much rain but I did a leak test after completion and so far no leaks...

  There were some posts on here and may be some in the archives as far as resealing the windshield header.   If you want to see some more depressing pics I got them, but one should be enuf

https://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/6801_6900/6820/Vette%2000 5.jpg



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 windshield frame rusting (17/22)
 2/13/06 1:57am

[QUOTE=greypoupon69]Does anyone have some pics of the places that rot??

Thanks if ya do! [/QUOTE]

there is a bird cage / frame for sale on ebay. check it out for a good pic of what goes bad. I'd post it here but i'm an idiot on computers & linking pictures. I could email the pic,  but you could look at ebay yourself.

 windshield frame rusting (18/22)
 2/13/06 2:10am

What's the e-bay auction # of that bird cage / frame?

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 windshield frame rusting (19/22)
 2/13/06 5:53pm

greypoupon69Lifetime Member
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[QUOTE=huk_finn]

[QUOTE=greypoupon69]Does anyone have some pics of the places that rot?? Thanks if ya do! [/QUOTE]


there is a bird cage / frame for sale on ebay. check it out for a good pic of what goes bad. I'd post it here but i'm an idiot on computers & linking pictures. I could email the pic, but you could look at ebay yourself.

[/QUOTE]

Thanks! I will see if I can find it on Ebay. Do you have the item number? I'm so lazy!


Thanks Ray for the picture.....I see now.    What about the center part where the T-Tops sit? Was that rusted out too? I've "heard" they do.


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 windshield frame rusting (20/22)
 2/13/06 6:57pm

2 cruznLifetime Member
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Posts: 1023

 


 

[/QUOTE]

Thanks Ray for the picture.....I see now.    What about the center part where the T-Tops sit? Was that rusted out too? I've "heard" they do.
[/QUOTE]

 Sorry.. mine is a vert...



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 windshield frame rusting (21/22)
 2/14/06 2:15am

ebay item #8036971952  ,,,, corvette windshield frame, from a '77.  dont expect to much, it needs work,lots

It's now monday 12:15 a.m.,,, 20 hours left on auction. its in california if I remember corectly. Think the starting bid was $325

 

 

 

 windshield frame rusting (22/22)
 2/14/06 7:42pm

greypoupon69Lifetime Member
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Posts: 4273

[QUOTE=huk_finn]

ebay item #8036971952  ,,,, corvette windshield frame, from a '77.  dont expect to much, it needs work,lots

It's now monday 12:15 a.m.,,, 20 hours left on auction. its in california if I remember corectly. Think the starting bid was $325.

[/QUOTE]

Thanks!



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C2 & C3 Corvette windshield frame rust repair

Bust The Rust

Tin termites are the curse of the windshield frame in C2 and C3 Corvettes. Here's how to fix rust issues without replacing the windshield frame.

In theory, Corvettes do not rust due to their fiberglass construction. However, 1963-'82 Corvettes have a steel frame within the fiberglass body known as the "birdcage," which is the backbone of every C2 and C3 ever built. If you live in a region where the air is damp like the hot, sticky, rainy South or the cold, frigid North where they dump tons of salt on icy roads you understand these American classics do rust. Often, the damage from rust becomes so extensive it becomes challenging to save the car. The uppermost portion of the birdcage is the windshield frame, which rusts even in dry climates because it collects moisture when you wash the car and when it rains. We're going to show you how to save the windshield frame.

In 2018, we showed you how to replace the C3's entire windshield frame, which is sometimes necessary if your Corvette suffers from extensive rust and you have access to a pristine windshield frame. However, if you have limited resources and a marginally rusted windshield frame, it can be saved with metal fabrication and patchwork repair according to Jack Grubisich of McJack's Corvettes in Southern California.

Because the great southwest enjoys an incredibly dry climate, it isn't often you see rust in a Corvette. However, a good many Corvettes have migrated to the American West from the East and North as people have moved here in huge numbers over the decades. If these Corvettes did extensive pavement duty in the East, especially in the wintertime, they tend to suffer from rust issues. Another rust influence here in California is the coast where Corvettes have been exposed to the salty Pacific air and mountain climbers that have faced their share of snowfall and cinders dumped on the roads high in the hills.

You may wonder why the birdcage rusts. You figure the factory does what it can to prevent rust, right? Well, the factory did what it could to produce a rust-resistance product. General Motors built some of the best automobiles in the world from a quality and engineering standpoint. However, GM was also in business to make money and ensure you were going to replace your GM car with a new one in five years. It's called planned obsolescence. It was also an important matter of where GM sourced its steel back in the day. In every automobile manufacturing operation, steel often came from different mills and different production lots where the surface texture varied with the condition of the steel mill rolls which cold-rolled the steel to its final thickness. Also, surface cleanliness varied with the mill's cleaning processes, especially the procedures used to control carbon smut, which was actually baked onto the steel during the high temperature annealing process following the rolling process.

The carbon smut was impossible to remove except by mechanical abrasion according to POR-15. Rust varies with the care taken in handling at the steel mill, during transportation and storage, and during fabrication in stamping plants. What's more, steel stored for a long time with rust inhibiting oil will react to form an incomplete oxide known as oil stain, POR-15 tells us. POR-15 adds the result of all this is that ordinary steel varies widely in the manner in which it accepts coatings. Although some steel provides an excellent surface for coatings, you are as likely to find steel which gives poor adhesion and poor rust resistance, even with a good coating. Even the best manufacturing operations have produced automobiles with poor steel content. If you could have been present for the bucking and building of your new Corvette back in the day, you might have been surprised by the crude nature of manufacturing where raw materials became your Corvette. It was not a gentle process nor was it clean. Contaminated steel found its way into new Corvettes from time to time.

The key to ending rust is to eliminate this stuff in the first place with chipping, grinding, and sanding—then etching and protecting the steel. Summit Racing Equipment offers a full line of POR-15 products, which treats the steel, then coats and protects. POR-15 is legendary for its rust-preventive treatments and coatings the company calls "practically indestructible." POR-15 non-porous coatings provide a permanent moisture seal to prevent corrosion according to the company. POR-15 tells us the secret is in the curing process. POR-15 doesn't dry, it cures and seals. Summit offers POR-15 coatings, including rust preventive paints, chassis coat black paint, Metal-Ready surface treatment, Marine-Clean, fuel tank repair kits, heat-resistant paints, solvents, engine enamels, and more for your classic Corvette restoration.

Jack begins windshield repair by evaluating how extensive the rust is, then getting about the rust removal process. Once rust is eliminated, the steel should be treated with POR-15 Metal Prep, which is an acid treatment that etches the steel to prevent new rust from forming. POR-15 tells us Metal Prep provides the best adhesion surface for POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating on any metal surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Their simple process gently etches the metal, creating an ideal surface for coatings such as POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to ensure the chemical bonding of paint and steel. Once the Metal Prep process has been accomplished, Jack seals the steel with POR-15 Rust Preventative Coating to isolate steel from the elements that can cause it to rust again. Vette

Sours: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/c2-c3-corvette-windshield-frame-rust-repair/
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At the bottom and white sneakers. - Hello. I came to thank you.

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Confidently - without a moment's hesitation - Nikita breathed out and right there, confirming his words with a concrete action. Again greedily grabbed the purple-juicy head of Andreev's penis with his open lips. Nikita did not know how to suck - he sucked badly, every now and then touching the tender flesh a bare head with.

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They lifted Irina by the elbows from behind, she stood up, and the peignoir was at the bottom, at her feet. He bent down, picked up his dressing gown and put it on a chair. Then he took his wife away from the table, moved him to the window, behind which the wet poplar leaves fluttered from the gusts of the breeze.

He liked to put his naked wife in front of the window, without turning off the lights in the kitchen. It seemed to Michel that curious onlookers from the opposite house from their windows or balcony could watch him, as if on display.

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Chris took her hand and continued with a serious look: - Everything is very serious, Tori. You've been poisoned. - Come on, who cares. - Listen to me, you lost consciousness yesterday and it's good that you managed to catch Alex, we brought you home and. Called a doctor, the tests showed a terrible thing.



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